A little deeper aromas – black dimension to add to the red with a little musk. More linear and mineral, balanced and perhaps a little more intense. A bright, burst of acidity that encourages the long finish. Very good but drink the Cazetiers today and wait for this.
Medium, medium-plus color. Initially a tight nose; floral high-tones and a darker oak base but for quite some time there is little more – patience raises a faint caramel impression as the barrel notes subside. In the mouth this is a little plump and furry from the ripe tannins and slides into a very long finish but one that’s currently dominated by oak. The concentration seems ample from the tight red fruit and though the acidity seems very understated you don’t really miss it until, perhaps, the finish. As it slowly opens and ’rounds’ in the glass the apparent concentration is similar to the 2005 but the delivery differs; this is up-front concentration that fades through the mid-palate, whereas the 2005 builds into the mid-palate and currently shows more layers. Day 2 this shows a little more rustic and behind the delivery of (for instance) the Pavillon Santenots at the same stage.
The colour is only a little more intense. The nose, however, is much more open – at least at the top-end with red fruit liqueur – below is a begrudging concentration of tight red notes, but there are occasional flashes of brilliantly pure red cherry. In the mouth this is plush, rather than plump – the still understated yet better balancing acidity seems to make the difference – much finer tannin than the 2006 and super intensity with several dimensions in the mid-palate. This shows a similar length to the 2006 but the oak has faded and you have a largely fruit-driven impression. If the 2006 is a fine 1er, then this vintage is by comparison a grand cru – what a shame that when I bought the last bottles at the domaine, there were only 3… – A superb Volnay.
Medium golden. An understated nose that shows a little creamy wool. The palate is linear – perhaps (old) boney – but very smooth and rushes you into a reasonable – creamy again – finish just a little faster than you might wish for the appellation, but it’s probably the appellation that saves it given such an inauspicious year and a maker with little track-record for whites. Enough for a last glass was was left in the bottle overnight and it was even slightly better the next day – not a hint of oxidation. Will make even older bones!
A nice core of colour. The nose starts – just like a lot of older Giroud wines – like an Italian wine that’s spent a few years in a giant foudre – that ’sort of’ oxidised note. Very slowly there is a little funk, finally a very nice and clear red berry note. Smooth on the tongue with nice acidity – also a little ‘gout de foudre’ but a nice little sparkle of something extra on the mid-palate. Has reasonable length and it’s certainly quite interesting – but unless you’ve the patience to open 3-4 hours before consuming, it’s a long way from a typical burgundy experience.
This has an impressive, deep, sweet, caramel old wine nose; no funk, no nasties just ‘irony’ (not ironic) and interesting for sniff after sniff. Smooth on the palate, it expands very nicely as you move towards the finish. The tannins are very well managed unlike (still) some from ‘76. Very alive, some elegance and quite some personality. Like many older Girouds, it doesn’t show quite the complexity you expect from the age – or the length, but despite not classing it as ‘great’, I would certainly class it as a lovely glass that was much appreciated.
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