2006

2006 Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

A side-by-side comparison – neither holds all the aces. The L et A Lignier, though offering slightly less colour, is a clear winner in the aroma department – just a gorgeous expression of complex fruit – the Lignier-Michelot is good, but really can’t compete. Over the tongue, mirroring the extra colour, the Lignier-Michelot is a little more extracted and offers more ‘up-front’ oomph, from there-on it’s a long slow diminuendo. The L et A offers a different recipe; narrower on entry, bursting with mid-plate dimension and shows more length. No bad wines here, each offers a balanced performance and I’d certainly buy both again, but the relative proportions today would clearly be in favour of Lucie and Auguste’s bottle.

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2006 Potel Nicolas Criots Bâtard-Montrachet

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

The best young white I tasted last year, indeed in the last couple of years – expecations were positioned! Pale yellow. The aromas are very tight – the wine was too ambitiously cooled given the 30° temperatures. Some fat, but balanced and with a width on the mid-palate and finishing length that was on another level to the Caillerets – yet disappointing. Okay, if it’s too cold, I’ll encourage it to warm and open by decanting. As it warmed it put on weight, but no sign of the palate staining flavours of last year. Eventually a faint but unmistakable note appeared on the nose – cork. We actually drank it all, as it was still a better wine than the Caillerets, but what should have been a resounding bottle was merely a sombre one – bugger!

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2006 Dublère Charmes-Chambertin

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

True Charmes. The wide and comforting nose is ripe and rather plush – lovely cherry fruit. Density, concentration and lots of dimension – chew and you’ll find even more. Understated acidity, yet there’s some cream-wrapped minerality too. An excellent Charmes.

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2006 Carillon Louis Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

A whiff of SO2 defines the first interaction – it’s even still there after about 20 minutes in the glass but on a much lower level. The fading of the sulfur reveals a width of aromas and some very pretty higher tones and eventually a little caramel. For the vintage there’s very decent acidity and a really beautiful width of creamy, dreamy ripe fruit – it seems to go on and on. No fireworks – if anything it’s a little tight – but it’s a very, very competent demonstration of a grand cru.

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2006 Long-Depaquit Chablis La Moutonne

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

More of a tasting recollection as I’ve slept since drinking it! Medium-pale gold. The nose is classic seashore with a hint of savoury that could be an accent from a little barrel ferment. In the mouth there’s none of that blousy thing going on that some 2006’s show: it’s linear, mineral and rather savoury and also a beautiful wine with or without food – it was followed by a Girardin 2003 Corton-Charlemagne that was clearly more gregarious; richer and showing an extra dimension in the mid-plate (good wine) yet was less successful during dinner – perhaps and hint more of acidity could have helped the Corton. I can currently buy the Moutonne at 60% the cost of the Fevre Le Clos, and about the price of a good maker’s village Puligny – a very nice and good value bottle.

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2006 Remoissenet Père et Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The Bienvenues noss shows creamy, dense, very wide and complex aromas – wow. In the mouth there is fat and concentration, yet there are nicely clean flavours, delicay and balance – thanks to fine acidity. The finish is very long but majors on barrel components right now. Simply super.

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2006 Remoissenet Père et Fils Bâtard-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

As a contrast to the Bienvenues, the Bâtard has deeper but much tighter aromas. In the mouth likewise, it’s hiding it’s complexity. If there is one area where this pulls rank, it is the intensity of the mid-plate, but overall this is showing in a very tight way so gives an ‘easy win’ to the Bienvenues for drinking today.

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2006 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Echézeaux

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Width though not that much depth to the aromatics. A pretty red and black fruit mix, and super width on the palate. Very fine expansion into the mid-plate before slowly lingering. Makes a strong impression.

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2006 Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton Clos du Roi

By on February 28, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. Intense, focused red fruit. In the mouth it’s full and powerful and there’s plenty of obvious tannin. At this stage the balance seems in favour of the structure, yet the clean flavours linger very nicely. Needs at least 6-8 years in the cellar I’d say.

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