2004

2004 Romanée-Conti Richebourg

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 27.25 hl/ha – or 953 cases. Slightly deeper colour. Violets and smoke on the sweet nose – the stems are more forward than with the previous wines. Lovely red fruit notes waft from the almost drained glass. Again a different approach – the wine starts narrow but widens and widens on the palate. There tannins are evident but well covered by fruit. The length is very sneaky indeed. There is similar concentration but better balance compared to the Saint-Vivant. Despite not fileding the usual Richebourg ‘punch’, this is a super package.

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2004 Romanée-Conti La Tâche

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 26.35 hl/ha – or 1,432 cases. I spent 40 minutes with this wine and despite how impressive it was – I didn’t seem to find too much to write! The nose starts slightly understated – hints of cedar and plenty of spicy interest. Slowly it becomes smoother and wider with faint caramel and coffee, eventually showcasing nice precise red fruits. Here is yet another character – more forward and ebullient. Super length with plenty of attack.

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2004 Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 26.55 hl/ha – or 471 cases. Medium-pale colour. The nose is wide and deep, translucent rather than dense with quite pleasant stem notes. Bottle two seems to be have more depth and show a more floral, violet aspect. It’s hard to point out specific attributes as there is that Romanée-Conti ‘whole-ness’ that provides such a measure of balance. Understated and precise, there is so much harmony and sophistication here. Certainly a wine for reflection rather than to impress.

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2004 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. Initially the nose is very tight with faint estery notes, slowly going deeper and a little spicy – eventually this becomes plusher, more red and with quite creamy sweet oak. The fruit is quite high-toned in the mouth, with well-covered tannin. There’s a fantastic length on display – even longer than wine de Vogèé’s 01 Musigny – there’s also quite a lot of oak on display but it’s not in the slightest ‘untasty’ and quite creamy.

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2004 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red colour. A high toned and wide nose that mixes red and blue-skinned fruits. A wonderfully effusive wine with excellent acidity and super depth. There’s a real extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate before going into a discrete but long finish. The tannins are completely buried by the fruit. A few of the previous wines are longer but this wine is a compelling ‘complete package’.

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2004 Haegelen-Jayer Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. High tones overlay a nose of considerable depth – earthy and cedar aspects and a slightly ‘lifted’ impression – but throughout our time together the nose remains completely understated. This wine bursts with excitement; it’s intense and the forward acidity makes it difficult to hold the wine in your mouth. The tannin is very well covered and the finish only slowly fades. It’s not as long as the best here but it’s not too far behind. This is an excellent bottle.

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2004 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Echézeaux

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose shouts red berries, starting in a very soft, powdery red fruit way. Time adds faint cedar and a kind of wet-metal note. Very understated entry, instantly giving the impression of a nice ride along the acidity before moving into a very, very long finish – that was impressive! The mid-palate has a small burst of interest, but this wine remains very understated – not aloof – just very understated and very well made.

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2004 Mugnier J-F Musigny

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The colour is medium-plus red, but halfway between ruby and cherry – already starting to lose some that youthfull robe. The nose starts deep and complex with a strong cedar note at the top, and all-spice below. It takes quite some time to open out into a more fruit dimension – mainly a redcurrant note that develops a baked tart effect. The palate has perfect texture – ultra-smooth – and excellent acidity. Really exceptional length, though currently edged with some faintly bitter oak tannin. Interestingly the cedar of the nose is mirrored on the palate. Just a little more intense than the Echezeaux, but I find that cedar note intrusive. Lots of positive aspects, but a wine that is less ‘together’ than the Mugneret-Gibourg today. Take an overnight rest in the refridgerator and the last glass has a more floral nose and the palate is more ‘together’ – still a little cedar though. 5 more lay in the cellar for the long-term.

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2004 Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The high-toned nose also starts with a little reduction and earth – it never really becomes fully fruit driven. The stance of this wine is althletic and ‘wiry’ with plenty of intrinsic muscle. The texture is good and the acidity helps to push the finish reasonably long – though in this company it’s (at best) average – with a little raisined aspect and some underlying oak being the dying notes.

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