1996

1996 Thomas-Moillard Corton Clos du Roi

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

A medium-plus ruby-red core. The nose is about iron and soft, sweet, musky notes topped with fainter blackberry. Linear and intense, this is classic 1996 with mouth-watering acidity and a faint but lingering length. It’s a very clean, concentrated and tidy wine that’s showing little in the way of development and will probably require at least another 5 years to turn a little friendly…

1996 Bachelet Denis Charmes-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts more oaky than I remember. The fruit is dense and red – super-clean like gelée. The palate starts wide and then narrows, then narrows some more – very linear, understated and long. This is super but very much younger showing than my last visit.

1996 Gallois Dominique Charmes-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bloody with sweet, dank, faintly sulfury oak and tonnes of turned leaf litter on the forward nose. In the mouth your main impression is the sweet river of acidity running through the core. As you reach the mid-palate the wine expands before slowly contracting into a good finish. I would say that there are many, many years in this wine yet, but it seems to be entering an early window of drinkability

1996 Hospices de Beaune Corton Charlotte Dumay

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Classic 1996 Corton. The nose is of blood and iron, eventually red berry fruit from the partially drained glass. The palate is linear and intense – almost metallic acidity pushes you into a quite long finish. The only thing that this wine gives away is the free polish of your teeth. I wouldn’t go as far as to say it’s enjoyable right now – but I was (just about) up to the challenge!

1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de la Roche

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is a beauty; a meaty base with sweet delineated fruit of real depth, loses a little of the higher tones with time in the glass. The fruit is concentrated and dense, velvety and plush without being too fat, though dense enough to amply cover the super acidity. The finish is long even for a grand cru. Still rather linear, rather than growing the mouth it’s a slow diminuendo. Very lovely now and no rush to consume.

1996 Castagnier Guy Clos St.Denis

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is higher-toned than the Clos de la Roche, more floral with violets and perhaps peony. In terms of texture this is also very like the Clos de la Roche, though the real differentiator is the fruit, it is even more linear – this wine would certainly benefit from another 3-5 years in the cellar – but it drank very well!

1996 Castagnier Guy Bonnes-Mares

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. Aromaticly understated when first opened, hints of deep fruit and unfocused high-tones. Given time the nose both deepens and widens, at the same time bringing everything into better focus – really lovely. In the mouth this is silky and intensly concentrated, the acidity is much more ’96-like than either of the Clos de la Roche or Clos St.Denis; the acidity is to the fore and shows just a hint of a metallic edge, but it’s very smooth acidity. The finish is not so long as the ‘Roche’, but like the ‘Denis’, this is a good deal more linear if not primary. The acidity begs you to swallow the wine, so the tannins just slip by. I don’t expect this will reach its apogee for at least another 5 years – when I will gladly try again.

1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wild and interesting; savoury and fecund maybe even a licorice edge, yet there is tight core of red fruit too that will need more time to fully blossom. This wine shows the most tannin of the 4 Castagniers, faintly drying but leaving a fine, soft coating on your teeth. Really intense, the concentration does a great job of balancing the acidity. The palate is quite backward though perhaps not so much as the Bonnes-Mares. A super nose, the palate just needs another 3-5 years to catch up. Will be super.

1996 Gallois Dominique Charmes-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep ruby-red. The nose is real mix; a hint of ash, pencil lead and faint meaty notes over a core of blackcurrant. The blackcurrant, black fruit edge continues on the palate – almost confiture – but you have to wait about 45 minutes before it comes into focus, medium length. The acidity is well-balanced and the tannin quite subdued – primary fruit though – still needs a few years. Tasty.

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