1991

1991 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

A vintage of hail, this was the ‘two-week triage with tweezers’ harvest. Only 15 hl/ha (Bonnes-Mares was down at 9!). I’ve read reports that this is not a typical Chambolle but on this performance it is a fantastic wine. Looks younger than the ’88 Bonnes-Mares that precedes it, but despite both depth and an engaging complexity after the previous wines the nose is relatively understated. The palate is dense without being fat, well delineated and shows a little rasp to the the tannins in the finish – but it’s a long and tasty finish. This wine still seems to speak of more to come in the future. Whilst the ’99 certainly has an extra flourish on the finish, side-by-side I’m surprised to see a little more intensity to the fruit of this wine. Luckily I’ve tasted (actually drunk with dinner) this wine twice in just over a year and this was a consistent showing. Very fine wine.

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1991 Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The weather was hot, so this wine overnighted in the fridge before being decanted. I left it in the decanter for an hour before drinking by which time it had already warmed up to 14/15°C. A medium-plus ruby core but moving to amber at the rim. Initially the nose gave a fabulous blast of bloody and aging tertiary fruit notes, then it started to close up giving only a cedar aroma – at this point I was starting to worry about taint. In the mouth there was lovely volume, just a little grain to the end of the tannins and lingering acidity, however, there are also waves of roast fruit and meat flavours that cling to your palate. Atypical in delivery, but very impressive none-the-less. The problem was that the suspicion of taint didn’t leave me for the first glass, so the wine that wasn’t fully enjoyed as I spent most of the while thinking, ‘what would this wine be like if . . . . ‘ In the end the day was saved, the cedar note receded to be replaced by raspberry jam and chocolate notes.

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1991 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The colour is a little more developed than the 1993. Deep nose of more roasted red fruits. The fruit comes through as roasted on the palate too. Fine concentration and fat allied to very good acidity and lovely, still drying tannins. Again a wine that is still very young. Nice if you have it!

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1991 Faiveley Joseph Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby colour almost to the rim. The nose sucks you in with damp soil, marmite, cooked fruits and a ‘top-end’ of kirsch. In the mouth it’s fat and sweet – still with mouth-wrapping tannins. Good acidity too. Medium-plus length. A few more seconds on the finish and I would have said ‘superb’, now I’ll just have to stick with ‘almost superb’. Still years ahead of it.

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1991 Delarche Marius Corton Renardes

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby colour showing just a little amber at the rim. The nose has deep, cooked black cherries and much soil and undergrowth. Still tannic with refreshing acidity, there is nicely concentrated fruit which finishes reasonably long, ending on a note of licorice. This is a rough, tough Corton – just how I like them, but is spoiled a little by a consistent astringency. Still pretty good though.

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1991 Latour Louis Corton Château Corton Grancey

By on January 31, 2003 #asides

Undergrowth and earth on the nose, perhaps a little animale too. The animale notes disappear to leave light toasty aromas and some fruit. Excellent acidity with still vigorous tannins. Quite long, this is a very good wine.

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1991 Grivot Jean Echézeaux

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Medium ruby colour bricking towards the edge. Unusual nose – almondy. After the above this is so much thicker, smoother and red fruitier with a hint of spice. Acidity is good and the tannins completely softened. Very yummy. Actually if I’d read before Clive Coates review in his ten years on, I wouldn’t have bought this one, but while the nose sounds similar, they rest is not recognisable. From me 18, from Clive only 14

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1991 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Deep ruby colour, this wine looks amazingly youthful, you could believe it to be a 97 or even a 98. The nose is a powerful blend of higher black cherry & plum fruit, coming down to more savoury, meaty aromas. The palate is incredibly tannic still, more reminiscent of younger Bordeaux than aging Burgundy. The acidity is still good whilst retaining intense ‘stone fruit’. There is no primary fruit left, but this wine is nowhere near maturity. I found this hard to like (unlike the 1992) and I’d say wait at least another 3 to 4 years before returning. Someone once said that the greatest Cortons are tough and powerful, this is both of those things but I’m not sure whether that makes it great !

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