Medium, medium-plus colour. Served a little cold and it’s tight, this really needed a bout 90 minutes before we had a powerhouse nose befitting a Bonnes-Mores with earth, high tones and just a little spice. In the mouth it was lithe, showed good acidity but there’s a sharp edge to the acidity. The length is excellent, there’s no fat and no roast fruit. All in all it’s fresh and exciting in the glass, but always retains that edge to the acidity.
Drouhin Joseph
2005 Drouhin Joseph Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
2006 Drouhin Joseph Chablis Le Clos
1998 Drouhin Joseph Clos St.Denis
Medium red colour just a faint amber transition at the rim. The nose is deep, brown sugar and baked red fruit with some higher alcoholic traces and faint vanilla – it’s lovely. On your tongue you miss a little ‘fat’ and there’s just a bitter chocolate edge to the tannin, but the fruit is equally lovely and the finish is very, very long with a raisin-fruit edge. Value alone vs recent vintage pricing is enough to guarantee this being a ‘rebuy’ – it’s hard to find good 1er crus from 2005 at this price.
1997 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
1996 Drouhin Joseph Musigny
Medium-plus ruby-red. From 12°C the nose starts deep, dank and woody with a touch of forest floor – much nicer than it sounds! As the wine warms in the glass, the fruit starts to take over, first it’s deep and plummy with hints of roast too. As the wine gets closer to room temperature the fruit gets ever more primary and and pure – beautiful red berry fruit – reminds me of the 99 de Vogüé Amoureuses of last week. The palate has just a little fat but is superbly balanced and beautifully round. There is almost a hidden density to this wine coupled with excellent fine tannin. The finish is very good but not quite a match to the rest. My best Musigny experience and a wine I absolutely don’t regret opening – wine of the year so far.
1990 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
A wine that I certainly enjoyed, decadent and voluptuous, but perhaps a little over-ripe and at this stage not really showing as Griotte. A deep core of ruby red, fading, but barely to the rim. The nose starts nicely rounded with high flowery notes at the top, reasonable fruity depth and some complexity providing the width – the depth improves with more time in the glass giving raspberry and a slightly meaty note, slowly starts to show some Griotte character. Gorgeous soft texture, super sweet fruit – perhaps too sweet – and completely buried tannins. A long, long finish with just a hint of bitterness 2 minutes(!) into the finish – but this is transient. Personally I find this wine a bit too 1990 and not enough Griotte – I’d rather have 1993, 1995, 1996 or 1999 in the cellar – but wouldn’t be too unhappy if I had some of this 🙂
1989 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
We are finally starting to see some maturity in these wines: Medium ruby with an amber rim. Not pronounced, but a beautifully understated nose to fall into, red fruits, caramel, coffee and a touch of licorice too. Despite finely concentrated fruit, acidity and still prominent, drying tannins, the palate seems a little ‘flat’ after the 1991 – a super finish though. In retrospect perhaps this is still a little too young. Still very fine, but it’s up against stiff competition here.
1985 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
Quite a dense colour but browner at the rim. When first smelled there was a pronounced red fruit compote nose – one hour later (and around three since opening) it is less fruity and a little more estery – for me, less interesting. Retains it’s beauty in the mouth though! Gorgeous texture and lovely acidity to compliment palate coating fruit and very smooth, drying tannins. In the context of this tasting, only medium-plus length to the finish but ‘ready’ and very hedonistic.