There has been some obvious seepage from the cork, but the bottle/label remains clean. A medium-plus garnet colour. The nose starts deep and brooding, perhaps a little sweet – but little else – the last drops in the glass, however, are of a lovely penetrating red berry. The palate is lithe, quite well concentrated and pleasingly fresh. The fruit remains nicely sweet but is set against slightly bitter tannin which is the main note of the finish. Aeration softens the bitter edge but never quite removes it. No obvious heat damage and very drinkable, but the 1994 is better.
Chézeaux
2003 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
(Leclerc elevage) The nose is even wider than the Ponsot bottling though the ripe, red fruit is a little blurred in comparison. Sweeter palate with tannins that are not quite so fine, though the fruit does seem to have an edge more concentration. There’s real impact in the mid-palate and a great finish too, though a little astringent tannin appears too. More impact, less refinement – depends how you like your Griotte!
2003 Chézeaux Chambertin
The bottle is cold, but the nose starts surprisingly open, a hint of reduction perhaps, but this is transient. Becomes even wider, good depth too – beautiful fruit – sweet and fine. The texture is first-rate, super-smooth tannins dovetail into gorgeously creamy fruit. If there was just a hint more acidity you could guess this to be a 2002 (or maybe 2005 in another year or two). The tannin just shows a little after you swallow. Another gorgeous wine.
1994 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
1994 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
This was the first year for elevage of Griotte by René Leclerc. Medium-plus colour, fading to amber at the rim. The nose starts a little diffuse, With extra aeration the wine gives up a creamy red fruit compote set against a faintly earthy background. Silky texture with good acidity and fine mouth coating tannin. The concentration is still in the ascendant. Just starting to come into it’s drinking window. A lovely Griotte and another very fine 1994
2001 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
2000 Chézeaux Chambertin
From 40+ year old vines. Disappointingly pale. Medium ruby, only the merest trace of cherry red hinting that this is not already 10 years old. With aeration there’s nice complexity on the high-toned nose. The palate has some sweetness, almost good acidity, and a little harsh wood on the finish. For sure there’s quite a lot going on in the mouth, for sure this is a still a very good wine, and for sure it’s better than many wines bearing the same label – but for my money this inferior to both the Griotte and Clos Saint Denis in 2000.