More sophisticated than this wine but less ‘upfront’. Today I have a slight preference for the initial joie de vivre of the previously tasted wine – it will be interesting to compare them over time.
2005 Gaston et Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
A deep cherry-red core. The nose is understated but deep – it remains so even after the last hints of dark oak have receded. This 2005 is one of the rarer wines from the vintage with an edge of black fruit in the mix – the last drops in the glass are, however, pure red. Smooth and soft – almost sweetly cordial like – it will keep this aspect for about another 2 years before becoming more ‘classically’ fresh. But balanced freshness is already evident, and the tannin is very much hidden in the background. There’s plenty of material here, and most impressive is the value – this was about 19 Swiss francs, i.e regional bourgogne territory. Even in 2005 you will be hard pressed to find such a sophisticated bourgogne.
Rebuy – Yes

New tidbits worth a visit:

• Simple answers to complex wine?
• Is Beaujolais the prettiest?

The second test from my delivery of en-primeur purchased 2005’s. Given the Indian Summer it had to be another white – it was too cold to drink much white this summer. Relative to other ‘Dents de Chiens’ this bottling is usually ‘only’ almost good to good, but wins for its bargain price, even in an appellation which is anyway good value – at 23 Swiss francs it’s cheaper than some bourgognes.
2005 François et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chien
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose needs a little while to widen, perhaps a little white blossom. The palate is intense and soft, sweetly ripe. The acidity seems quite understated – but there’s much more density to this wine than in most vintages, it even has some focus. For the price, very impressive.
Rebuy – Yes

Other tidbits worth a quick visit:

• Alsace and Burgundy travels
• Exploring Burgundy: Bourgogne Aligoté
• Scientific proof that your nose lies
• The 2007 Vintage, hot off the press a lovely site, despite being pink!
• ‘Indigenous’ Clone 4 Chardonnay

2004 Château de la Crée, Santenay Clos du Château
A ‘monopole’ I never heard of. Lots of attention has been made to the upmarket packaging, but how do the contents reflect the producer’s aspirations? Medium-pale ruby-red colour – looks older than the label suggests. The nose shows plenty of medium-toast, deep oak, above is a herbal potpourri element rather than the more common cedar of the vintage. Light-bodied but light on it’s feet too and with very good texture – the tannins have quite a fine grain. The acidity is fresh and even intense in the mid-palate, lingering into a good finish. Actually this is very well made – plenty of expensive oak, but well integrated and no heavy-handed extraction. The oak is just a little more obvious than my preference but this is both well-made and good value at €15.
Rebuy – Maybe

Two new wine-related pieces; riesling and münster. I remember once sitting on a flight to Munich from Basel, it was summer and there was a smell – I though I’d forgotten my deodorant – when we landed the lady in front of me apologised in-case I could smell something, it was her package of Münster cheese in the overhead locker…

2005 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
Medium cherry-red. The advice is to decant this as it may show a little reduction and carbon dioxide – so done. The initially diffuse nose takes about 15 minutes for a more focused, higher-toned impression, still with a trace of reduction. About 90 minutes were needed for an additional, darker cherry depth and a hint of toffee – the longer you wait the better, but after 2 hours I’d finished. The texture is excellent, super smooth. The grain of the tannin comes very late, just after the acidity bursts through the mid-palate. The fruit is nicely expressive with faint torrefaction providing a nod to the wood treatment. Not perfectly balanced today as the acid needs to integrate a little more in the mid-palate, but I think this will be lovely. Wait 5 years for this very sophisticated, medium-bodied wine.
Rebuy – Yes

I asked David Croix about the wine – apparently 80 year-old vines that are biodynamically farmed. He only had the grapes for the 2005 & 2006 vintage though.

Two new pieces worth a quick view; 1 and 2

And a meal to die for – El Bulli