(Magnum) A medium-plus colour – slightly more mature looking. The nose is back to the 2005/2003 archetype; wide, spicy, mineral, white pepper and just maybe a hint of violets. Again this is a mouth-filler and like 2005/2003 shows the dark, mineral and slightly saline character. Super length again and at this age it has lost all trace of bitterness in the first-class finish. After a while there’s a slightly disconcerting coconut aroma, but a quick swirl dissipates it. A super bottle.

A medium-plus, dense and dark colour. There’s a sweet, slightly burnt note on the nose but it’s not at all ashy – rather there is width and an impression of clay – quite nice actually. Concentrated, showing gras, ripe fruit and background tannins. There is good dimension in the dark/mineral/spicy mold – just lacking the better focus of the 02/01. THat said, this is tasty and easily the most approachable wine so far.

Medium-plus colour. The nose fits perfectly within the context of this family of bottles; dark, spicy, peppery and in this case with faint higher tones. Initially mouth-filling with ripe fruit and good texture. I expected a little more intensity from this vintage and though the focus is first-class the overall impression is more of a diminuendo after the entry. THat said the mid-palate shows the characteristic saline minerality and the long finish is aided by good freshness. A very good wine, but maybe could have been even better.

Medium-plus colour. Whilst the majority of what the nose offers up, neatly fits the vernacular established by the other wines, there is just an extra edge of oak toast – unique to this vintage – but the wine has eaten it up sufficiently that there is no impression of asyness. I find a lot of carbon dioxide on the palate – initially it’s very hard to judge. Plenty of swirling slowly releases the wine within; on entry the fruit has a nice red edge and a good, dark and spicy length. As the gas fades, so the dimension on the mid-palate becomes ever-more expressive and impressive – really lovely, and I would say better than the 1999!