Medium, medium-plus colour – amber at the rim. The nose is like a junior version of the 1995 with a little added earth. The flavours are at quite a good level and the length is also rather fine. Medium-bodied, quite silky and totally open for business.

Deeply coloured. Mineral, crystallised dark fruit on the nose. Very fine texture, minerality and lovely acidity – the length is a match too. It’s tight and muscled and I reckon needs 5-8 years more in the cellar. I was smitten for the first 30 minutes, afterwards the nose was occasionally a little pruney – I ended up undecided.