Not so much full-on oak on the nose as many grand crus from Leflaive, but plenty of toasty bread, tight fruit and eventually higher alcoholic notes. In the mouth my first impression is disappointment; soft, rather unfocused but good acidity. The wine then wakes a little with an impressive burst of complexity on the mid-palate that holds into a long – if rather oak driven – finish. It’s long and has some undoubted complexity but maybe I’ve caught it on a bad day as there’s no real focus or spark.
Leflaive
2002 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
The colour is just a faint shade deeper than the Bienvenues. Similar oaky depth to the nose but rounder in shape, slowly lets some higher tones escape. An extra depth on the mid-palate, more mouthwatering and certainly longer. This wine has tons of material and makes a compelling statement – really excellent.
2002 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Medium yellow colour. The nose has depth combined with a high-toned top note. Lovely texture, waxy without becoming cloying. Long, still oak tinged at the end. The mid-palate shows a high-toned profile, somewhat mineral rather than fat. Very balanced and accomplished, but missing a hint of excitement.
1995 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Versus the Bâtard the colour is a little deeper – more golden too. The nose is higher toned and a little less burly, riper though still with plenty of oak. Despite this wine being decanted an hour earlier it’s another hour in the glass before the nose reaches its peak. Overall this is a fantastic wine that just doesn’t quite show the precision of the Bâtard but anyway very fine.
1993 Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc
Very impressive – medium yellow, no gold despite it’s age. The nose is dominated by a mellow, toasty-oak note. Concentrated, vibrant acidity and surprising length. This is a very clean and technical rather than sumptuous wine, with the merest trace of hazelnut towards the end of the mid-palate burst. Happy that I have two more, but sad that there are no more.
1996 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
2001 Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc
A surprising amount of oak on the nose – not noticed this with my other bottles – but this is following a wood-free Chablis. The nose also reveals a broad palate of fruit. As always, super depth for a Bourgogne – though at it’s price-point it should really be compared with villages wines. My home stacks are shrinking, but I’ve enjoyed every bottle.
2001 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet
2001 Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc
A honeyed yellow colour. The nose is quite intense with a deep, initially oak base that turns ever more honey and cream, just a little citrus topping too. As always, this wine shows the intensity and definition of a good village wine – but then it should, it’s always the price of some producers village wines! Hard to criticise at this AOC level, but I’d have liked just a touch more acidity. If you find some in a sale I wouldn’t (indeed I didn’t!) hesitate to buy a few.