Bouchard Père et Fils

1997 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. The nose starts with a herby top-note and a little meat below, it slowly develops a sweeter core of spiced plums. In the mouth this is full of dimension and some reasonable tannin too – the flavour is slightly savoury and inflected with coffee. Good sweetness and no lack of balance helps produce a decent finish. Unlike many from the vintage, there’s a real smoothness here – impresses. Half a bottle was left in the refrigerator overnight and next day it was acid-forward and not so nice, though my single glass was always rather cold. So on the third day, at room temperature (~19°C – the weather was cold!) the impression was somewhere between the last two days. So initially a very tasty if not stunning grand cru. Drink it straight away, watch your serving temperature and you will be rewarded!

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Mercurey

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Direct and concentrated fruit on the nose – dark red – little complexity. Nice texture – little overt tannin as it’s covered by the fruit, little overt acidity also but it is always balanced. Like the nose, nothing complex here but it’s perfectly packaged, easy-drinking and yet a concentrated effort. Zero faults apart from the want of a little character today. Will certainly keep and possibly grow in personality.

1994 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Surprisingly deep colour, amber at the rim. The nose starts tight and dense, faintly savoury too, time adds a greeny, herbal note – but not unlikeable. In the mouth it has more than decent concentration for the vintage, similarly decent acidity and a grained tannin that retains a little astringency. The fruit has some sweetness, yet there’s still a bit of bitterness in the finish – I have the impression that the tannin grain and and the bitterness are both barrel derived. Overall this stays rather clunky even if there’s not much here to particularly dislike – or indeed like!

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A bright and pretty medium cherry-red colour. The nose is a broad and forward blend of sweet toasty elements, some coffee even something faintly resembling fruit. Obvious, but quite well textured and slightly astringent tannin. Good intensity that grows and grows before peaking in the mid-palate. Helped by perfect acidity there is a very good length – but that length is mainly oak derived and relatively bitter – much more than a bitter chocolate effect. I’m sure this will be nicer, and perhaps even ‘worthy’ in a couple of years, but frankly today the forward oak left me with little to enjoy.

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Perrières

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-pale colour – certainly looks okay. The nose is wide, showing soft fruit and faint lanolin with an even fainter citrus veil – a faint caramel note eventually escapes the glass. Perfect acidity, a little linear in the mid-palate and a super acid-driven length. Not as ‘giving’ as 3 years ago, but understated excellence, still.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambolle-Musigny

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A négoce wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has decent width but better depth, but note that it has an appreciable oak base. In the mouth the concentration is almost good and there is plenty of tannin though it seems more wood than grape-driven. The length is good, but despite it being a decent enough and very drinkable effort, indeed a wine you may be happy to have in your cellar in 10 years time, I see this as well behind the better village cuvées from the 2005 vintage.

2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium ruby-red. Depth and dimension on the nose – really grandstanding at the moment, and the oak is barely perceptible. Mouth-filling and concentrated, there’s good depth and plenty of tannin. There is a little oak flavour, but nothing compared to what its 05 and 06 cousins currently show. The finish is a little warm, but long. Very well balanced and has the sweet fruit which is the hallmark of the vintage. In a lovely place right now, but no need to rush.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie Les Champs Fulliot

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

A bright medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. High tones over red berry notes. Mouth-filling with plenty of fine tannin and very good acidity. As the wine lingers in the glass the red berry note of the nose comes through on the palate too. Good intensity and length, it’s a good wine. The price is rather ambitious for the appellation – about 40 Swiss Francs – but the wine clearly has quality.

2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and oaky; dark, sweet oak rather than overt toast and there’s not a trace of vintage cedar. In the mouth it is similarly dominated by the oak. Certainly there is decent, sweet intensity behind the wood and a more than lingering finish – it really is very long – but frankly on day one, whilst it’s a tasty oak beverage, I can find little to suggest Burgundy, let-alone Beaune! This is usually one of the best value cuvées you can buy from any négoce so I gave it a chance: Day 2. The nose remains deep, a little musky – not so much oak but still hard to spot the fruit – perhaps dark-skinned plum, but on the negative side as it warms in the glass you get a hint of ash. In the mouth it now has a higher-toned dimension and plenty of sweetness. The length is unchanged and I’m happy to report that it shows more of a creamy than vanilla edge. This is significantly improved, even if I still wouldn’t guess Beaune! If you want to drink Beaune, then decant this at least 5-6 hours before drinking. If you just want a delicious glass, pop and pour.

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