The deepest colour of all these wines. A brooding raspberry and black cherry nose. Dense palate with staining flavours. Very long with a little rasping texture to the tannins. A rough and ready wine that falls short of elegance but has undoubted eloquence. Really very, very good.
There’s a dense core of fruit that’s a more roast expression than for 98. Sweeter and more intense palate, even the mid-palate has more intensity – though less fireworks. Better length, and that green note is there again – it’s more easily identifiable this time as fresh mint. Interesting, vs the 1998 this has more of everything – except charm! No worry about waiting another 5 or so years to see if it mellows, but drinking today I prefer the 1998.
What an interesting nose, open, forward and effusive, Slowly evolving, it has both width and depth and is savoury and meaty rather than fruit driven, undergrowth too like turning over piles of brown leaves. Understated entry but then there’s an explosion on the mid-palate before slowly fading into the finish. For me this is an unusual but rather compelling RSV, certainly not the greatest I ever tasted but very fine for all that – I’d be rather pleased if I found a bottle or two in my Christmas stocking!
From the ‘Quartier des Marei Haut’. Some freshness on the nose, sweet, ripe fruit – but not overly so. Fresh palate with dense but beautifully textured tannins and plenty of fruit extract to balance them. Like almost all 2003’s this is very ripe, but still manages to offer a ‘classicly’ balanced wine. Very good.
Given the block-buster reputation of this domaine’s V-R Suchots I was mildly surprised by this village wine. Medium but young colour. The wine really sings on the nose with beautiful red-cherry pie and a very interesting but slightly tighter depth. The palate is sweet, medium bodied and very elegant. Good acidity pushes the finish longer and longer. The tannins are there and in the slightly dry ’98 vernacular, well behaved but perhaps begging a little more fruit concentration. Elegant to start with, but the tannin does start to get in the way without food, very good with though.
An aged colour of medium-plus browning amber. Not too much spice on the nose, but plenty of sous bois and turned earth. Unlike some of the younger vintages which are very, very concentrated, the wine puts in a very elegant performance. The tannins are resolved, the acidity is good and there is the silky texture that only a good Burgundy can deliver. A treat!
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