3 bottles – only a modest return…

By billn on July 28, 2016 #degustation#p.ox

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2014 Domaine Gueguen, Chablis 1er Vosgros
This wine is burly yet impressive – there are flashes of fine flavour and aroma too, but compared to the domaine’s Vaucoupin (here) this is a longer-term prospect – you should wait 2-3 years I think. This, today, and good as it still is, is simply not in the same class of deliciousness as that other wine. Still very good though!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gain
The identical twin of the last bottle. I forced half a glass down, before the rest was disposed of.

For those with an interest, the Achaval was simply too sweet – like jam. Their 2000 Finca Altimera was much nicer at Christmas…

new burgundy report(s)

By billn on July 27, 2016 #site updates

06-2016So the April and May reports were all about Beaujolais – lots of domaines visited, wines tasted – and blind too – about 650 bottles of them.

Now the June report is also online with an interesting selection of themes, including a pinot vs gamay rosé face-off, plus other interesting (for me!) looks at vineyards, tastings and some domaine visits too. I’m now teasing-out all those, as yet unreported, visits to populate my July report before attacking the base design of this site during my August ‘holiday’ – and why?

Well, this site has ‘memory’ problems, a legacy of how the report pages were designed – not a problem for most sites, but then most sites don’t have close to 15 years worth of content, including over 1,000 pages, roughly 3,000 diary posts and I’ve really no idea how many images. The NoteFinder page has also simply fallen out of use as it would be too time consuming to add all the missing notes – close to 4,000 of them – such is life. More importantly, the base code of the site was ‘cutting-edge wordpress’ in 2009, but the developer no-longer updates it – so with an eye to security I must grasp the ‘change nettle’ – and that’s a really big thing for the site AND for me!

So the pages may look a little odd during August and maybe even some of September – but after that, I can hopefully concentrate on content without the site slowing me and you down!

Cheers!

walking in aloxe and pernand this weekend

By billn on July 26, 2016 #travel pics#travels in burgundy 2016

Actually not a bad temperature for walking last weekend. The storms forecast for Thursday evening never came, but there were deluges of water on Friday morning – it was literally as black as night at 09h15! I assume the treatments in the vines of previous days were completely washed away.

Cloudy but comfortable walking with 22-26°C for most of the time.

weekend bottles – week 29

By billn on July 25, 2016 #degustation

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2013 Clothilde Davenne, Saint Bris
A fresh nose and one that is a little more obviously sauvignon blanc than the 2012. Ooh – a lovely line and minerality to this wine – fresh, tasty and very moreish. Yum. Definitely a more varietal wine than the (I remember) more concentrated 2012. I prefer that wine, but this was lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

2012 Domaine Dublère, Beaune 1er Blanches Fleurs
Hmm – this smells rather dreamy-creamy – fine red fruit too – very inviting! In the mouth there is concentration dovetailed with a modest softness of texture. Super waves of strong, sweet and tasty mid-palate and finishing flavour. I find some oak influence here – but the wine remains nothing short of delicious – super!
Rebuy – Yes

2012 JC Boisset, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Just a little deeper colour than the Blanches Fleurs. A deeper aromatic that has herb and tobacco when first opened – slowly it adds more flowers and has a fine dark-skinned cherry fruit. Big in the mouth with quite some intensity of flavour too – herb-inflected dark fruit – really this is very super, faintly saline wine – certainly there’s a mineral impression in the finish – a super long line of saline fruit notes in this finish. The waves of flavour are a little less obvious vs the last wine but generally there’s more complexity. Really a top, if rather young wine – yet, really yum! Probably better than, though less delicious today than, the Blanches Fleurs.
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Louis Latour Pommard 1er Epenots
Here is a wine that you should, currently, decant. It starts with a mix of modest reduction and slightly less modest oak notes – slowly but surely it gains higher and fresher notes – the fruit behind is never in question. A lovely width of fresh berry-cherry fruit on the palate with a faint halo of dryness, but not to the extent that there’s any tannic grain. A fine fruit note adheres to the tongue – and it’s very persistent. Today the wine is mainly defined by this oaky reduction – but seriously good material waits below. It’s a very different style of oak here vs the Blanches Fleurs – and this weekend, this is my favourite wine, very closely followed by the Grèves.
Rebuy – Yes

p.ox-y mischief

By billn on July 21, 2016 #degustation

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Having mistakenly opened a (remarkably super!) 2007 M&M to follow-up on my p.oxed 2005, here – eventually – are a couple of 2005 follow-ups. Sadly, and in my cellar at-least, these are for the fish or chicken sauce – only.

2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Deep colour. Basically like the last bottle – it smells more like an exotic blend of fermented marmalade with a large helping of Jura wine. This is such a shame because this wine was a stunner 6-7 years ago – shame on me for not drinking them all at that time.
Rebuy – No

2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gain
Deep colour – exactly the same as the last wine. This also has the fermented marmalade / cider / sweet honey nose – though in this case without a clear note of Jura. Less exotic than the Caillerets, but equally compromised. In the mouth there’s a good line and excellent concentration of flavour – but also a wine for the cooking, not the Riedel…
Rebuy – No

I shall be rounding up all my remaining 05s – save the Leflaive Chevalier – probably for cooking with…

ex-cellar bouchard père et fils auction…

By billn on July 20, 2016 #the market

bouch-saleArticle link here

It must have been around 1999 that Sotheby’s made the very same ex-cellars sale. It quickly followed the purchase of Bouchard Père et Fils by Henriot (of Champagne). I actually bought a few things as I liked that they came direct from Bouchard’s cellars.

Provenance is, of-course, king, but most of my purchases have been drunk, though maybe I’ve still some 1997 Le Corton (OWC!) left – somewhere!

Fifteen-plus years later, and looking at some of the quoted estimates, I don’t expect that this time round I’ll be buying very much – which is a shame as I quite fancied the mixed case of Volnay Caillerets!

mid-july burgundy vineyard update

By billn on July 20, 2016 #harvests#vintage 2016

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“I know it’s only July, but frankly I can’t wait for this vintage to be over. We were proud to have survived the growing seasons of 2012 and 2013, but 2016 is on another level. The harvest will not be better, very few grapes and a massive competition to buy grapes too – probably at prices that will make the bottles unsellable – it’s also probable that some producers and maisons will go out of business – it will just depend on their banks.”
A Beaune grower yesterday evening…

Extra Work
Weeds have been big problems this year – growers don’t recollect them growing so fast before – it’s clearly a vintage for weeds. There is also much extra work in training and pruning; those vines affected by frost growing more like bushes and needing particular care so that there will be something to prune to allow fruit in 2017! It’s interesting to see some occasional plots in the Beaune 1ers that seem to have been abandoned – straggly growth and lots of weeds as high as the vines – here there are of-course no grapes after the frost – some people are either prioritising – or have already given up!

Hail
After the (unreported) hail of the 24th June took out some of Gevrey’s Lavaux St.Jacques, there was more (unreported) hail in Chassagne last Wednesday (13th July) – both were localised and weather reporters simply cannot track these storms.

Mildew
July usually sees the last treatments before domaines go on holiday, but the vineyards are busier than usual. Some are trimming their vines – and quite late versus most years – and others are still treating against the threat of mildew. The weather for the last 5-6 days has joined in the fight against the mildew – there’s been a drying north wind in that time – but the damage has already been done. The northern vineyards of Champagne and Chablis have been decimated by mildew – “If you thought the hail and frost was bad – you should see what the mildew has done.” an owner in both Beaune and Chablis told me on Monday.

Oïdium
The Côte d’Or has suffered much less than Champagne and Chablis, but there is plenty of dew each morning and this isn’t going to help protect against oïdium. Normally you have either mildew or oïdium, but not both – but in a vintage like 2016 the producers are not counting what chickens they have left – indeed they are praying that the pendulum doesn’t swing too far from mildew to oïdium.

The heat
It seems almost churlish to invoke ‘heat’ when we’ve had such a generally cool vintage – but yesterday it was 33°C in Beaune and today it is forecast to be over 36°C. The heat itself isn’t really the problem, rather it is the sudden arrival of such heat without acclimatisation by the vines – “It’s the spikes in temperature are the problem. After the frost, and the mildew, those grapes that survived will probably get roasted today…

Sometimes I’m really surprised how upbeat some producers can be – when not talking about their vines. But did I mention that storms are (again) forecast by Meteo-France for the Côte d’Or later today……(?)

weekend walking in burgundy:

By billn on July 19, 2016 #travels in burgundy 2016

It was a perfect weekend for walking, getting a little hotter each day. For the first time this year, there is more ‘definition’ in the vineyards as the vines are trimmed and more regimented – I love this time of year!

Auxey-Duresses


 
Northern Beaune 1ers

 
A little Gevrey-Chambertin

camille giroud & chezeaux/ponsot – weekend stuff – week 28…

By billn on July 18, 2016 #degustation

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Despite the temperature closing in on 30° this weekend, my boss said – No, it has to be red!
So here you go:

2012 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Les Lurets
Hmm – the nose is not the best – it’s not bad, but I’d want more purity from my Volnay – here the fruit is very powdery – stopping short of musty, but for the whole night, stable, powdery. In the mouth – no problem. Sinuous, dark red and pure fruit with lovely energy. The shape of this wine in the mouth is really lovely – it drinks (oops – drank!) very well.
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Chezeaux/Ponsot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
I hate these seals – or at least the attempted removal of them – I don’t think I’ll ever stop saying that, but the wines have always been fine!
Hmmm – dreamy pure fruit – ripe fruit – you might easily think it was from a vintage like 2009. In the mouth there is fine energy but again, despite the easy-drinking beauty of the fruit, it is very much a ripe, almost cordial fruit. Too easy? Maybe for Chambolle 1er, but certainly too easy to drink today – it is gone in double-quick time. Hopefully by age 10+ there will be more real interest, instead of simple, if appealing, easy drinking fruit.
Rebuy – Yes

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