côte d’or – the truth!

By billn on April 15, 2019 #warning - opinion!

Or today’s truth anyway 🙂

I have often previously written that I was personally of the view that name Côte d’Or was derived from ‘east-facing’ – mainly given the number of old maps inscribed with côte d’orient – this, as opposed to the view that the name was derived from golden slope – something which lasts no-more than a couple of weeks – and not every year. Well, this month, the BIVB have weighed in with their own, currently, definitive version:

“Did you know?

Two uses and two origins for a single name!

Winegrowers chose the name of the Bourgogne Côte d’Or appellation as a reference to the orientation of the winegrowing hillsides. The Côte d’Or in this case represents a contraction of “Côte d’Orient”, meaning oriented to the east. A symbol of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, this favorable aspect goes a long way to explain the excellence of its wines, which benefit from the warming rays of the rising sun.

The Côte-d’Or département (with a hyphen), for its part, was named by the National Assembly in the 19th century for a much more bucolic reason. The name refers to the magnificent golden color that cloaks the vines just after the harvests.”

Or maybe they are just referring to the new appellation of Bourgogne Côte d’Or – watch this space…

offer of the day – Christophe Perrot-Minot 2017…

By billn on April 12, 2019 #the market

No lagging in the price department – I wonder (out loud!) who are the clientelle here. Of-course if Bernstein and Le Moine can reach these sort of levels, why not the person who owns the land and the vines and works those vines?

As usual, the prices are delivered in Switzerland – but here, include purchase tax. Note that these were special introductory prices – the price goes up at the end of the offer 🙂
In the brackets – 2016 prices:

VINS ROUGES
Morey Saint-Denis La Rue de Vergy 2017 75cl 120.60 (94.50) (*Swiss Francs)
Gevrey-Chambertin Justice des Seuvrées 2017 75cl 120.60 (94.50)
Nuits St-Georges 1er ‘Les Murgers des Cras’ 2017 75cl 120.60 (100.80)
Chambolle-Musigny Orveaux des Bussières 2017 75cl 138.60
Vosne-Romanée Ormes des Chalendins 2017 75cl 138.60
Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 156.60 (128.70)
Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte Vieilles Vignes 2017 75 cl 174.60 (163.80)
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 249.00 (193.50)
Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone “Ultra” Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 389.00 (385.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveau 1er Cru “Ultra” Vieilles-Vignes 2017 75cl 389.00
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 444.00 (420.00)
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 444.00 (420.00)
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 444.00 (420.00)
Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 1,059.00 (840.00)
Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 75cl 1,059.00 (840.00)

!!!

*As noted, these are delivered prices, but this email offer is discounted – whatever is sold from their normal catalogue is at a higher price!

frostwatch – 2

By billn on April 12, 2019 #vintage 2019

Last week I reported on this year’s first ‘stabs’ of frost in Burgundy – and it seemed that from Chablis to Beaujolais everyone expected some modest losses from the year’s first wave of frost – except the few vignerons that I spoke to in the Côte de Nuits – they lead a charmed life!

Yesterday, as I was preparing to leave Beaune for a long weekend, the Côte de Beaune was once-more preparing themselves with many large bales of straw to be seen punctuating the flat-land vines of Aloxe and Chorey – the forecast was for about -1°C this morning – but seemingly that was not enough to prompt the bales being lit. Last night in Chablis, however, saw temperatures of -4°C and those with recourse to protection used it. Nathalie Fevre notes that ‘It was a proper Spring frost – frost collecting at the bottom of the hills, so on the higher slopes we had no problems.

It seems that for the next 2-3 days there will be a lack of sleep for many vignerons as they watch the mercury – the temperatures are currently set to rise from Sunday onwards, though…

some mid-weekers…

By billn on April 11, 2019 #degustation

Another from my 6-pack of Ramonet Mâcon-Péronne – super – you can find a proper note on that one in the last few days entries…

2012 François Buisson, Meursault 1er Genevrières
A name that I don’t know too much about – a cousin of Michel Buisson – from Buisson-Charles.
Ooh – this starts very 2012 – a little tight in the aroma and a wine of drive and line – fresh, intense, but not a wine that melts over the palate. My first impression was Chablis-esque. The second half of the bottle was drunk on day too – by now the aromas had relaxed and opened some, likewise there was a little more fat on the palate – the wine was now recognisably Meursault, but still with a beautiful line – always with great texture. Pure, delicious and showing the vintage more than the vineyard, I think. Worth learning more about this domaine…
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Château Ravatys, Côte de Brouilly Réserve
Deep colour – but what a wine. Just a trace of the spiced fruit of 2015 – of-course plenty of ripeness of fruit too. In the mouth, this is a dream – really! 2015 Beaujolais really doesn’t get better than this – depth of flavour, fabulous texture – gorgeous flavour. A wine that, right now, has everything – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

today’s walk: volnay->monthelie->auxey->meursault->volnay…

By billn on April 10, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019#warning - opinion!

The rain that was forecast for practically all of this week – didn’t really materialise until this evening – at least in Beaune anyway! So today we managed a good, and dry, walk – picnicking in Meursault, before heading back via Plures, Santenots, Caillerets and Champans, to our car in Volnay. Then a quick run around Beaune before the heavens opened – oh and our apero!

Less herbicide treated vineyards to see today – except for Santenots and the ‘villages’ bottom of the hill – there’s very little in Volnay, a little more-so in Monthèlie, and at-least by the route that we took – not much treated this way in Meursault. 20 years ago I could understand the use of glyphosate – the wines whilst not cheap, weren’t expensive either. Today these are all expensive wines, and there’s no excuse…
 

mainly puligny today – a herbicide-orama…

By billn on April 09, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019#warning - opinion!

April is a time when you can easily see the chemical warfare that hides within many expensive bottles with a Puligny-Montrachet label – there is no excuse…
 

catching up!

By billn on April 08, 2019 #degustation#weekend stuff

Just a few weekend pics – in this case the Saturday market in Bern, not Beaune!
 


And then there was today – but in Beaujolais – BBB to be precise:
 

frostwatch…

By billn on April 05, 2019 #vintage 2019

Earlier in the week I showed you images of the candles and wind-machines that were waiting in the vines – because this was forecast.

Above is an image shared by Olivier Lamy in St.Aubin, taken last-night, but I’ve seen pictures from Chablis and the rest of the Côte d’Or – e.g. Sylvie Esmonin’s Clos St.Jacques – not just with candles burning through last-night, but also the return of burning straw in Santenay, Savigny and Volnay.

On the positive side, temperatures were ‘only’ about -1°C to -3°C in the Côte d’Or but as low as -4°C in Chablis, and only a small percentage of the buds have actually started to open – we are of-course much earlier in the growing season than when the big frost of 2016 (and Chablis 2017) hit. On the negative side, there is surely still some modest damage and the total cost can’t be calculated before the fruit-set – i.e. how well the flowering goes and how that translates to (latent) grapes on the vines.

Growers in Pouilly-Fuissé and St.Véran shake their heads when asked about the frost – ‘I’m sure we have some losses – but it’s too early to tell‘ is a composite response.

The situation is similar in Beaujolais; temperatures as low as -3°C, and whilst the vast majority of buds were not yet open, there is still some expectation of reduced yields – all the way from the crus to the south of the appellation – I asked half a dozen vignerons from north to south Beaujolais, and they are anticipating 10-15% losses in the gamay, more in the chardonnay. All say, however, that it will depend on whether the vines keep pushing over the next couple of weeks, or whether the frost causes a pause in growth – if the latter, then they are sure that they will have lost more…

I will, of-course, keep you posted. We have one more night that may bring some frost – tonight – though perhaps not in Chablis as the clouds may offer protection there – before calmer weather returns…

ramonet-péronne, 2017…

By billn on April 05, 2019 #degustation

2017 Jean-Claude Ramonet, Mâcon-Péronne
Cork-sealed.
Modestly lemon-yellow colour. A width of airy yellow fruit, accented with both a faint oak spice and an impression of limestone minerality. Wide over the palate too – bubbling with mid and finishing energy – silken, yellow citrus but more mineral than fruit today. Narrowing in the, modest impact but, tasty finish. An open and very tasty wine – less delicious than the 2016 was at this stage but it’s close – this will certainly get better in the short to medium term though. I’m pleased to have bought the last half-dozen in the shop!
Rebuy – Yes (but now all sold-out)
​ 

Burgundy Report

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