what price a real winter?

By billn on January 29, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

Chablis, like the Côte d’Or, is wet and not particularly cold for the time of year. The temperature has ranged between 4 and 6°C today and the rain has hardly stopped. Actually it rained so hard between 9 and 10pm yesterday, that I decided not to jog – so all the Chablis-based chains were safe – it’s looking like the same for today too!

The ground here is saturated, and the river is high, fast and brown-coloured. Most places look fine after two dry days, but it only needs 15 minutes of rain and all the standing water in the fields returns. The growers really want to see a week or preferably more with significantly minus temperatures – and even if a little snow might arrive tomorrow, it won’t be fulfilling many producers’ wishes. And it’s exactly the same in the Côte d’Or.

I have to say I felt very sorry for people pruning today with the rain driving sideways…

heading to beaune to avoid the cold!

By billn on January 27, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

Monday morning I arrive home, planning to head to Chablis for my first appointments on Wednesday – but oups!

7°C in the house. Following a heating-oil delivery, the machine refuses to function, and 7°C is cold, it’s much warmer in the cellar @ 12.5°C! The engineer only gets there at 6pm so I’m dressed like the Michelin-man as I don’t know what time he’ll arrive – and it’s far too cold for typing!

Okay – eventually (seemingly) all is fixed – but I’m not staying as the house will need days to warm-up. Despite the heavy snow, I’m heading to a warmer bed, in Beaune!

Tuesday is snowless and actually quite okay weather in Beaune. It gives me chance to catch up on my typing – a little 😉

sunday lunch…

By billn on January 26, 2015 #travel pics

Sunday is our last day in the mountains – and its snowing again.

Up (somewhere!) on the hill above Klosters is a nice restaurant and you can sledge back to the town if you like. I don’t know about the sledge, but I’m up for lunch 😉

moving on…

By billn on January 25, 2015 #travel pics

On the third day I ditched the ‘langlauf’ skis!

I’d pretty much stopped falling over – except when I couldn’t snow-plow those tiny skis on icy snow – but was frustrated by all the ‘skaters’ zooming past me. I was too slow, and a little bored!

But the next day was gorgeously pretty in the next valley in the Engadin – compared to cloudy and snow in our valley – so a really uplifting day walking between the small Engadin villages, with a view towards the Swiss National Park. We really must go back in the summer to do some walking – simply gorgeous scenery and small villages.

to be classic, or not to be classic…

By billn on January 24, 2015 #travel pics

Well, I have to stave of boredom, despite being in the spectacularly pretty mountains. Okay not that pretty today due to cloud and snow!

So if I can’t do downhill, what about cross-country? And then the vexed question of skating or ‘classic.’ I decide that I’m the classic type and take a lesson – I’ve never done it before!

The next hour-plus I fall on my derrière at least a dozen times as my weight goes too much backwards – this hardly ever happens in downhill as you’re balanced by the pitch of the hill. But anyway, I think I’m getting the hang of it – even if my derrière disagrees!

oups!

By billn on January 20, 2015 #travel pics

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Regular readers will be aware that each year in January I disappear for what I like to call ski-training before doing a downhill race in Mürren.

WP_20150107_009Well, about 10 days ago, jogging at night in Chablis, I failed to observe a chain between two massive ‘plant-pots’ – I hit the ground hard and fast, and made a mess of one of my shins. Still, it was just flesh!

That’s what I thought anyway; putting my skiboot on was not totally comfortable – but skiing got harder and harder until it simply wasn’t possible. I’m aparently fit – I can walk or run – but it seems I can’t lean forwards into my boot. Race? I can’t even get down a blue run properly – I must have actually bruised the shin-bone. Curses…

I think I need a great Chablis!

chablis 2013 – no reference points…

By billn on January 16, 2015 #the market

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My hat of the day award!

I’m more than 75% of the way through visiting roughly 35 domaines for my January, Chablis Vintage 2013 Report (though my last half-dozen visits are not for another 10 days) and its a very particular vintage.

I won’t publish my report until the start of the second week of February, but given all the offers that I’ve seen, and more particularly some of the descriptions (exultations/exhortations to buy!) I’ve seen, I thought it timely to add just a few words – caveats if you like…

Except a few wise old owls who invoke very old vintages (ones never, ever, drunk by 99.9% of current buyers) the producers will tell you that they have no reference points for this vintage. Yields were low, but that doesn’t always mean concentration. The wines may be direct, fresh and mineral ‘Chablis’, or they may be round and rich with hints of botrytis and apricot – admittedly tasty chardonnay, but not really Chablis. It really depends on the address. Really!

It should be fine if you get to taste samples beforehand, but buying blind makes 2013 a much more complicated proposition than 07, 08, 09, 10 or 12 was – or indeed 14 will be (just for the record, I really don’t like 2/3rds of 11 Chablis, sorry). So be careful out there! On the positive side, apart from a couple of massively over-subscribed domaines, whose 2013s are anyway fine, (and who only spend their money on funny hats), Chablis is generally some of the easiest white burgundy to source – so you’ve time to wait for my report 😉

blinded by the light – chablis encore…

By billn on January 12, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

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I came out of my last appointment, Billaud-Simon, at about 17h10 and noticed a beautiful red light on the hill-top vines. I zoomed up in the car to Les Clos but the last rays of the sun had already departed the vines in those 3 or 4 short minutes. Of-course the sunset lasted a little longer 😉

You will have no-doubt gathered by now that I’m beginning my second week of Chablis 2013 tastings – just one more trip at the end of this month to wrap up 30+ domaines for the January EXTRA! It was a very modest day today – only 3 domaines and about 30 wines…

Burgundy Report

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