These producers have invested in a very nice new ‘livery’ for their 2004’s – much more elegant than their niaive predecessors.
2004 F & D Clair, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Medium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price.
Rebuy – Yes

The last time I had one of these was at least 3 or 4 years ago, and probably a 1996 – but I do remember liking the wine! In September I took a ‘flyer’ and managed to land a reasonably priced case at auction; here’s the chance to see what kind of mistake I made!
1998 Pierre Gelin, Fixin 1er Clos Napoleon
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose starts very subdued, only slowly starts to take on a more tertiary, slightly alcoholic edge – eventually becomes quite interesting. The palate is well textured with super acidity and impressive mid-palate concentration – if it had any astringent tannin in its youth then it’s already melted. It’s ready now and I’m sure it will hold for a few years more, it’s just a little Gevrey in style and very well priced.
Rebuy – Maybe

Seems I didn’t do too badly after-all!

2003 Domaine du Clos Frantin, Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A deeply ripe red-fruit nose; it flirts with being porty but just-about avoids this tragedy – though I’m concerned that with time it might fall from the tightrope it currently walks. The palate is soft and concentrated with a burst of tannin in the mid-palate, the finish slowly fades. The concentration and extract are self-evident and are well-judged, but it’s hard to find the complexity given the density of its current demenour. Clean and well made, one more stays in the cellar to see how this develops – clearly a 2003.
Rebuy – Maybe

2002 Antonin Guyon, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Fournières
A good medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts full of minerals and sweet red cherry, slowly becomes a little higher-toned and diffuse, the remaining drops in the glass, however, have a quite lovely smell. The palate is quite intense and pure – red-fruity – quite fresh too. The tannins are quite mouth puckering and astringent, but you don’t notice so-much with food. This will probably always be a little acid-forward, but there’s plenty-enough fruit to wait 2-3 years for the tannin to melt a little.
Rebuy – Maybe

[Pommard-free posting!] Here in two bottles you can see the two faces of the 2004 vintage in the Côte de Nuits. It’s a rather extreme difference given that the bottles come from the same cellar, and slightly disappointng given that I still have 5 of each in my cellar, but I’m in no rush and perhaps there be some slow improvement!
2004 M & P Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Argillières
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a pure and bright red-fruit core but has a rather green-pea malolactic style edge – though of quite some depth. The palate has medium depth, good tart acidity and a creamy, deep oaky, though with a rather dry tannic depth – but seems to need an extra dose of ripeness…
Rebuy – No

This Nuits is like chalk and cheese vs the 2003 that in the summer I disliked so much for it’s very ripe fruit, oak and vanilla-laden style. Perhaps I should open another bottle of that and make the perfect blend with this 2004…
2004 M & P Rion, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is quintessential Chambolle – or at least many peoples’ expectation – soft, sweet red fruit with the faintest savoury edge; it’s very pretty. Versus the domaine’s 04 Argillières there is more depth, intensity and extra ripeness. The tannins are fully covered. The acidity still has a little tartness, but this also helps hold the fresh flavours of the mouth-watering finish. The oak has much better integration here – lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes