Some good quotes – particularly Lafon. You will remember I raved; the best cellar of the vintage…
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pinot of a different flavour…
A nice article by Jancis. I was lucky enough to taste with Jim Clenenden at Domaine Ramonet last month – what a very nice guy. Turns out that in his youth he spent some time working and tasting his way through Burgundy…
burgundy tannins versus the rest…
Andrew Jefford notes some differences in European ‘tannin management’ – in this case Burgundian DRC…
(Sorry abot the awful decanter.com pop-ups!)
drc assassin…
A little Tuesday morning drama for you.
Jeanine Gros, summed it up succinctly:
“‘Wine’ and ‘poison,’ these two words do not belong in the same sentence.”
Nice picture of Aubert too!
the young turks of burgundy
As re-told by Alder Yarrow…
in conversation with jean-marie fourrier
A thoroughly absorbing series based on one interview by Brooklynguy – part three now available.
A taster from part 1:
JMF: My dad is one of the least diplomatic men you can meet, and the reputation of the wines suffered because of this. Fourrier wines had been imported to the United States for years, but then in 1986 Robert Parker came to visit my father and he said “You should use 100% new oak on your wines.” My father kicked him out of the cellar and said to him “My job is to make wine, your job is to taste it, not to tell me how to make it.”
BG: That can’t have ended well.
JMF: No, it didn’t. Parker wrote that Fourrier’s is the dirtiest cellar in Burgundy, that the yields are way too high, that the wines are not worth looking at. The reputation suffered and we stopped shipping wines to the US, as no one wanted them.
surly masters of wine…
To make matters worse, an ongoing and increasingly bad-tempered dispute developed between two of my fellow Masters of Wine about a hugely important question for burgundy lovers.
Jancis in the FT
Sounds like one of them needed a kick up the arse…
a ‘vinery’!
unprofessional ‘professionals’ plus a few pics…
“In January 2010, I had a good look at the 2008 Burgundies and decided that they were in the main thin, hollow and unappealing. What I didn’t know at the time was that most of them had still not undergone their malolactic fermentation. Retasting the wines in September 2010, I found that thinness has now transformed into elegance.”
Oz Clarke, Wine Spectator
I appreciate the candour of Oz Clarke in this instance, but frankly he has a well-known name in the UK, and his initial comments betray a lack of understanding (as a minimum they were clearly uninformed) so essentially were unprofessional – I hope he wasn’t paid to express them!
Anyway, more fun – I’m in Burgundy and the temperature is hovering above zero and there’s some rain – it’s not for mooching around outdoors. Yesterday was a mix of Pommard, Puligny, Nuits then Beaune (locations), today was a slightly more focused Gevrey and Marsannay, while tomorrow will be trek north from Savigny to Nuits to Chambolle eventually to Morey. I’m not even thinking of Friday.
Over Clos St.Jacques to the ‘house’ in Veroilles
Clos St.Jacques from Sylvie Esmonin’s cuverie
Marsannay
Roadside Marsannay
