Harvests

Bans des Vendanges 2006

By billn on September 18, 2006 #the market#vintage 2006

The info we’ve been waiting for:

  • Côte de Beaune : 18 September
  • Côte de Nuits : 20 September
  • Hautes-Côtes de Beaune et de Nuits : 23 September
  • Châtillonnais : 15 September

Around Auxerre (Yonne)

  • Crémants de Bourgogne, Saint-Bris : 11 September
  • Irancy : 16 September
  • Vins du Vézelien : 18 September
  • Chablis : 16 September

The weather has been pretty good; clear skies, sunshine & 28°C for much of September (above average) and only two days with a little rain – half the September average – but then we’re only halfway through September! Anyway I’m hoping to be getting my hands dirty at the triage table this weekend so will send updates as we go.

Two additional snippets of Burgundy-related info:

  1. Following a 21% increase in volume for the last quarter of 2005, worldwide export figures for the first six months of 2006 confirm Burgundy ‘s top form, with a boost of 12% in volume and 11% in value compared to the same period last year. Even more noteworthy, is the progress of Crémant de Bourgogne : where despite low volume, exports rose by 22% in volume and 60% in value from January to June year on year, continuing the trend started in 2005 when exports of the region’s sparkling AC took off (source : BIVB).
  2. On the UK market, volume exports of wines for the period January to June 06 show a 4% increase on 2005 (+1% in value). For Crémant de Bourgogne volumes, the uplift is 13% over the same period (source : Douanes Françaises).

So many things (including Leroy!)…

By billn on September 11, 2006 #degustation#vintage 2006

Let me see; a wonderful dinner last night in the Hotel Adler. 12 different bottles of Domaine and Maison Leroy wines from 2004 to 1966. The 2004 ‘blends’ have been really hyped – vs the hype I was disappointed – but it will take me some while to write-up my pages of notes! The merchant responsible for this excellent event was Max Gerstl, well-done Max. Just for the record, the wines were:

  1. 1997 Leroy SA, Bourgogne Blanc
  2. 1996 Leroy SA, Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
  3. 1966 Leroy SA, Meursault Peruzot
  4. 2004 Domaine Leroy, Bourgogne Rouge
  5. 2004 Domaine Leroy, Vosne-Romanée
  6. 1966 Leroy SA, Corton Grand Cru
  7. 2003 Domaine Leroy, Savigny-lèes-Beaune 1er Cru Narbantons
  8. 2003 Domaine Leroy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Fermiers
  9. 2003 Domaine Leroy, Nuits St.Georges
  10. 2003 Domaine Leroy, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes
  11. 2003 Domaine Leroy, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
  12. 1966 Leroy SA, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

Returning to the ‘hot’ topic; still no rain in the Côte d’Or – the weather was just a little cooler on Friday, but back up to 28/29°C for the weekend and with it was a little more breeze and a little less humidity – Just what we want. Can it last for another 10-20 days…(?)

Cheers

wine bottle closures – the book

By billn on September 05, 2006 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#vintage 2006

jamie's most recent bookI just got to the end of Jamie Goode’s self-published book on wine bottle closures. The book is a distillation of current knowledge/data with respect to the various approaches to what I will call ‘taint management’.

To be honest, I found this a really interesting read and though there is a high dose of technical language, Jamie really made it easy for this (ex) research chemist – I think it’s also reasonably approachable for ‘lay’ readers.

Unlike Jamie’s book on wine science, this is a lower-budget presentation that is structured with very short sections that are perfect for 15 minutes reading here and 10 minutes there – my main reading operandi. Jamie repeats himself often; it’s like a presenter, telling you what he’s going to tell you, then telling you, then finally reminding you what he’s told you – but for me it worked very well – and I think I even retained some of the info! Chapter #3 is a super reference to sulfur and oxidation & reduction in wine that would sit well in any reference book and is almost worth the price of entry for that section alone. Highly Recommended!

sunnyPlenty of good weather today on the Côtes, lots of sunshine. The nights have warmed just a little, and the temperature at 2:00pm was 28˚C
Cheers

Burgundian Weather + Lunch

By billn on September 04, 2006 #vintage 2006

weather_not_bad.jpgSo-far, so-good. The weather is not so hot (about 25˚C) but more importantly, there is plenty of sunshine. More of this, and a little breeze to counteract the humidity, and things will be just perfect – unfortunately we need about another 3 weeks of this.
Lunch with the future of British winewriting today; Neal Martin and Jamie Goode – the gossip will be flying – should be great fun!
Cheers

September means harvest – maybe!

By billn on September 01, 2006 #vintage 2006

We move into the business-end of the year – the ripening season – after a strange growing season. There was tons and tons of rain early in the year.

June brought perfect, even flowering conditions. This, together with the earlier rain caused dense, lush foliage growth.

July made everyone think of 2003 – it was hotter than that year with record temperatures across the whole of Europe – already some were thinking that late August holidays could (again) be a mistake. It seems that the early season rain was very-much needed

August was cold and dark – double the normal amount of rain too. However advanced the vines had been in July, by the end of August we were back to the average – but only by mixing the highs and lows.

September is upon us and every year this makes the vintage – or not. It has started with clear skies and ‘okay’ temperatures (~25°C). Now is the time to watch closely!

Cheers

A few days in the Côtes

By billn on May 25, 2006 #vintage 2006

BBC weather forecast was a washout – literally – fortunately the days on either-side were more than passable. Get up at 8:00am and you’ll find that many have been in the vines already for almost 2 hours – they are still at it at 8:00pm – I’m happy enough to watch!
The vines were about 2-3 weeks behind the average schedule due to the cold winter, but seem to be catching up. A ton of material now to be written-up, oh and my developer is on holiday leaving a bug in the system – so at least a week before the note-finder is deployed – c’est la vie!
Cheers

Perfect Picking

By billn on September 22, 2005 #vintage 2005

meursault harvestWe are most of the way through the Côte de Nuits harvest now – let’s say 90% complete – though given a good forecast not everyone is picking just yet. The weather has been great – except for the early morning pickers who get blue fingers due to the cold – the blue skies have continued and the tempertaure has increased by about a degree per day. Suncream is required for pale-skinned types like me – but please don’t get it on the grapes!

In the end it will come down to the quality of the fruit. With the exception of a few hailed areas (quite early in the growing season) the fruit seems to be in great shape. As noted during the weekend, the grapes have very little rot, the pips are brown and it is only the how ripe the tannins from the skins taste that is driving some of the domaines’ decisions. Yields from the vines look like they will be a little down on 2004, but much more was discarded last year, so wine in bottle could be more plentiful.

Growers are still laking of another 1990 or 2002 but better – we will find out in due course, but anyway it looks like we will have fun tasting!

For those interested in one domaine’s detailed look at the harvest, you can find an interesting MSWord document here from Domaine de la Vougeraie

sunny days

Now We Start

By billn on September 18, 2005 #vintage 2005

meursault vendangesThe sun is shining and yesterday’s breeze is today’s wind – the flags stand proud. Despite the sun, I didn’t see anybody in the (outdoor) hotel pool this morning – at 10:00am it was still 7°C! At the cuverie everything is ready; the table de trie is waiting, the plastic cases for the grapes stand in line and triage team try to agree on the choice of music – Placebo or Romanian folk music – it could be a tougher day than anticipated!

Here we go – close to three tonnes of grapes from Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peiullets. This vineyard had real heat stress in August and was desperate for the early September rain. Despite the cool weather, the grapes were harvested in the sun and are warm to the touch. They are very ripe and, compared to last year they are easy to sort; everything is ripe, some dried grapes need to be removed and there is a tiny amount of rot in the centre of some bunches – done.

It’s only small team today as a) it’s Sunday and b) we’re only expecting about 5-6 tonnes of grapes. Lunch is washed down with a surprisingly good 2002 Dugat-Py Gevrey – where’s the wood? – it needed testing, and what more appreciative audience 🙂 Later in the afternoon we start getting the grapes for the Bourgogne Rouge; the fruit hails from Meursault. Compared to the Savigny, the grapes have less dried berries but do require the removal of the occasional unripe or rotten bunch. We decide on ‘Europe 2’ for the radio and a quick rythmn is established

As the last grapes go through the triage, the wind has gone and the temperature is a balmy(!) 14°C at 8:30pm. Unfortunately duty calls (plus a tasting of multiple vintages of La Tâche!) and I must head for home, however, the local team will be our eyes and ears as the grapes come in over the next 5 or so days. If we avoid rain on Monday and Tuesday any future rain will be inconsequential for the wine quality – just the colour of the picker’s boots and legs!

No Ill-Wind

By billn on September 17, 2005 #vintage 2005

smileI arrived today in Beaune with a car full of waterproof clothing – rain was forecast but thankfully never arrived – instead we had sun, 17°C and, if you were caught out in the open, a chilly breeze. It had rained a little the previous two days which is always a nightmare in the vineyards – like some bad dream; you walk slower and slower as your feet get bigger and heavier – the mud really clings. The breeze was such that the Côte de Beaune vineyards I wandered round this afternoon were completely dry – no heavy shoes – and the grape clusters were also dry.

I spent the afternoon wandering around vineyards in Pommard, Volnay, Meursault & Puligny, followed by quick drive through St.Aubin. Much of the village vines have been harvested though many of the premier cru vineyard’s grapes still hang in anticipation.

Harvesting was going on in all the appellations except St.Aubin – but I could have missed them as it was close to 6:00pm by the time I got there. I have to say the grapes look in very good shape – I saw almost zero rot, not many shrivelled grapes either. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on some grapes tomorrow.

This evening we repair to Beaune for the last evening of the annual Jazz à Beaune. We stumble out into the cold (sub 10°C and cold breeze) morning (it’s almost 1:00am) following great sets by the Elio Villafranca Quartet and the Kenny Baron Trio.

Burgundy Report

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