Tasted in Beaune with Jean-Pierre Confuron, 12 December 2019.
Chanson Père et Fils
10 Rue du Collège/r Paul Chanson
Tel: +33 3 80 25 97 97
Vincent & Jean-Pierre on 2018:
“2018 was not such a big vintage – we made more in 2017. I find it to be in the style of the recent warmer vintages, the style of the wines is certainly different to what people would have previously expected. We had a chance because we’ve been organic for a number of years, then cooling the grapes, keeping their stems – of-course we had plenty of fermentations that required close attention. I think, globally, a very interesting vintage because there are good wines in both colours, but tiring as we had no reference points during their production, wines of the 90s, by comparison, were very easy to make, it was simply a question of the primary material, it’s more difficult with the recent wines.
“I think there is some strong maturity in the whites they have plenty of phenolics in the last vintages, a density, they are gastronomic wines, they are not really wines for drinking at 6pm as an apero, they have a potential to keep – grand garde? I don’t know, but they have a strength.”
A great result chez Chanson. There are great wines to be found here – in both colours – vins de garde! I’ve even a preference for the whites as a whole!
Do harvesting here. Bottled.
Hmm – that’s a nice width of slightly cushioned aroma. Direct, sleek lines, hardly any of that roast-fruit style of Givry – a little herb from the stems – deliciously mouth-watering in the finish. Givry to keep a couple of years, but excellent Givry!
Bottled 10 days
Not too deep a colour. A little stemmy complexity on the nose. Sleek again, lovely drive, a very slight cushion to the texture. Elegant, fresh, but then much finishing concentration, the herby stems ever-present, so you will need patience for them to melt and become more interestingly complex – try in 3+ years.
2018 Nuits St.Georges
Champs Perdrix, and Chalandins – high and low. All Premeaux side. Not yet bottled, but ready after racking…
A little deeper colour. A more musky depth of whole-cluster perfume. The structure is different – a textural drag from the tannin, but no grain. Darker fruited, again with the accent of stems – here almost perfumed finishing. Again to wait for.
Contracts since 2001 between Brochon and Gevrey. Not yet bottled
A deeper, darker nose, but also the first to show a real glimpse of perfume from the stems. Beautifully fresh, a wine of direction b ut also one that widens over the palate. Fresh, fine energy, a touch of finishing astringency but that’s a super finish! I find this excellent – but to wait for.
2018 Santenay 1er Beauregard
A little less colour. There is some depth here, but it’s the higher-toned aromas that are the more attractive. Fresh, touched with salinity – this is mouth-filling wine with super energy. Cool-fruited and long. Super – the finish is fine and very red fruited!
More coloured again. A much more compact, deeper nose with the barest of floral notes escaping the glass. Big, structural, mouth-filling, slightly astringent, but not herbal. Complex and powerful. A great wine to save – bravo – only in the finish some wc perfume!
Plenty of colour. Ooh, that’s a beautiful nose – the first where I would think ‘ready.’ Very wide, depth of flavour, depth of texture too – always fresh. More mouthfilling, more overt density than the Dominode. A great PV with a great, concentrated finish!
2018 Beaune 1er Grèves
Hmm, deep, round, dark-fruited, but attractive. Mouth-filling, luxurious, layered, long, rich – almost too much, but here is everything – the only question is how long you should wait – it’s already quite drinkable in this round style. Super, though I’m less convinced by this than the previous wines.
2018 Domaine Beaune 1er Clos des Marconnets
Freshness and depth of aroma – this is a great start. Hmm, this is more like it, I prefer the underlying structure here, the modest grain of tannin, the weight of mouth-watering flavour. This is a very big wine, but balanced and potentially a greater one I think.
2018 Domaine Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches
Much brighter – a more forward nose that showcases its herby stems much more than most of the last half-dozen wines. But energetic, fresh, mouth-filling with a little extra perfume from the stems, rather than the herbs of the nose. Lots of potential here – really persistent finishing – really super!
Another fresh nose, but here with more width – herby stems but not to excess. Sleeker, more driving, touched by an accent of astringency, but open and velvet textured. No real fat or additional richness. This has a great finish, slightly saline in the overt complexity. Great finishing, potentially great wine for the patient…
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Perrières
Oof! What a great and perfumed nose – just so attractive. Sleek again, fine freshness. A little perfumed herb in the middle – but actually lots of perfume. Very impressive and drinkable in a way already. Excellent Gevrey 1er…
Of-course plenty of colour, but clear at the rim. A deep nose, herbed, complex but tighter in the higher notes. Nice shape – almost mouth-filling but still with a sleek impression. The middle is complex, reflecting a little the stems, not perfumed today but with potential. Persistent and with finishing weight of flavour too. A great finish, but today there needs to be a bit more character before the finish.
Chablis is 10% of the total sales of Chanson – Viticulteurs in Chablis, pressed there and vinified in Beaune.
Deep, vibrant nose – ripe but energetic. Crisp, direct, ripe but properly fresh and with a saline accent. Obviously a riper Chablis but a Chablis!
2018 Chablis 1er Montmains
Also ripe, but this is a wine of width and interest – fresh, wide, mineral. Great drive, layered from the ripe fruit but of fine texture and melting fine flavour. You could only say Chablis with such a line of flavour. Delicious finishing too… Excellent!
Also an important cuvée for Chanson – it’s in big demand these days – predominantly in France but is growing everywhere.
A more perfumed herb as a top note – but a nose of inviting freshness. Rather mineral and green herbed. Layered, slightly exotic but of line. This has a lovely structure – I like it very much.
A little more width of fresh, yellow, citrus here. Just a little savoury, complex – bubbling over the palate with a modest minerality. Lovely texture. Such a delicious, easy to drink wine, with a nice character of finishing phenolic texture. Bravo Rully!
Multiple 1ers blended.
A more mineral, slightly reductive width. Fine, fresh, driving minerality, here with a slight touch of rigour – but the finish is meltingly delicious and mouth-watering – ooh and so wide. A great finish but be patient for the rest of the wine to catch up! Bravo!
Multiple origins about 75% bought as grapes, harvested by the team here.
A little more yellow colour. Hmm, mineral, deep, perhaps a suggestion of reduction too. Wow what a great line of flavour. Yes reductive, very faintly oaked too – this is really excellent but carafe or be more more patient. The finish mouth-watering for quite some time! Bravo!
Wider, more accessible aromas – mineral again but not reductive. Wide vs the direct drive of the last. Very fresh, certainly of tension quite complex finishing too. Open wine, perhaps too easy after tha great Meursault and Montagny combination! But here is a finish that still promises much…
Mainly but not entirely domaine vines.
A deeper nose though one of less width vs the Puligny. Mouth-filling freshness, a little rigour but a super clarity, growing intensity of mouth-watering flavour. Deeply and superbly mineral finish – it holds the attention. A great finish and much power before to back it up too – clearly to wait for but Bravo!
2018 Domaine Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes Marconnets
Lovely width of fresh aroma here, pretty yellow citrus and a suggestion of the floral. A touch of reduction but also a line of purity slight fat to the texture but with fine energy. Great finishing again.
2018 Domaine Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeux
Deep a little reductive – but’s a Pernand style! Deep, beautiful texture, less overt energy yet there’s a super clarity and shape to the wine. Stone fruit finishing slowly mouth-watering, and long too – what a great finish again.
2018 Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches Blanc
The most floral, but with a good stony depth to the aroma too. Lots of mouth-filling, rather mineral, freshness. But also a clarity of flavour. Again with extra dimensions of finishing flavour – these white finish fabulously! Simply excellent wine.
Not a big nose, that’s for sure, but all the same, there’s a very inviting complexity here. Zip, clarity, weight of flavour too, just a suggestion of reduction to the minerality. Really a concentration of extract in the finish – this will need time to unwind – so much dry extract – bravo – but you are going to have to wait.
300 metres from Caradeaux.
That’s a much more open nose, full of fine complexity. The most mouth-filling of these wines, with proper structure too, layers of flavour melting over the palate. Concentrated and really great. Fabulous in the finish – no surprise following the other wines. Also great wine!