Tasted in Beaune with Marinette Garnier, 27 November, 2019.
2 Rue Paradis
Tel: +33 3 80 22 12 49
More reports for Maison Jaffelin
Marinette on 2018:
No major problems in the cuverie – all were fermented before Christmas. We buy the same parcels every year, but certainly, there’s more volume in 2018 than in 2019. There’s 18 months of elevage for all the wines, including the Bourgogne. Pigeage was only done before fermentation as I was worried about extracting too much tannin.
85% is exported from here – Japan, US, Uk and other European markets.
Reds that seem younger than they did at the same stage in 2017, showing more oak too, than this time last year. But they are also wines of vivacity and fine freshness too. Just wait 12 months plus for these. The whites are very good, often excellent, but can’t quite match the greatness of some of the 2017 cuvées.
Jaffelin make about 260,000 bottles in total, all the bottles we taste are actually fermage contracts so to all intents they are domaine wines.
The reds all tasted from barrel:
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Chanoines de Notre Dame
Vines near Meursault – high vines in lyre-training. All destemmed.
A good and bright red fruit, some graphite style aroma. Hmm, this is nicely balanced on the palate. Tasty wine. Some oak to fade…
From Beaumonts. Again all destemmed
A little creamy oak, wide, easy red fruit – attractive aromatic. Hmm, this is super in the mouth, fresh, layered, red-fruited and tasty. Plenty of oak to lose at this stage, but a good wine of persistent flavour.
2018 Givry 1er 1er Clos de Marole
New here, same vigneron as a previous Givry purchase. Some wc in this one.
Deep colour, fresher nose. Super in the mouth, more structural but great texture too. Another great 2018 Givry.
2018 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeux
No wc, quite a quick maceration here – just 18 days and it was done.
Nice depth of aroma with higher tones. Hmm, this has drive and freshness. It’s juicy and goes long. A little oak in the finish, lots of potential – yum.
2018 Beaune 1er Grèves Clos St.Anne
A little wc in this
A tighter nose but there’s depth here. Lovely over the palate, depth to the flavour too, mobile flavour, delicious flavour. Just a little more structure and perfume finishing.
2018 Auxey-Duresses 1er Les Duresses
Very old vines, in a windy place so the grapes dry and never have a big yiekd 15-22 hl in the last years, some wc here again.
A little more colour. The nose compact and showing a little oak spice reduction. Drive, vibrant, lots of energy, some structure too. Long finishing – needs time but it’s showing quite well.
In Les Citerns, not yet sulfured, 40% wc
Plenty of colour. A vibrant nose, some oak. In the mouth this has nice shape, it’s open, well-textured, the oak is there in the flavours so wait for this, but the shape is good the finish is excellent.
2018 Santenay 1er Gravières
About 30% wc, organic-certified in the vines
Lots of colour. A faint reduction in the depth, but this seems to have a nice texture. Supple, a wide flavour panorama. Nice structure, this is excellent, it shows the vintage but has fine balance
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
40-50-year-old vines, 60% wc this vintage
Hmm, that’s the most elegant and pretty nose so far – a little tight but impressive. Supple, nicely fresh, layers, indeed waves of flavour, some tannin to wait for but this is an excellent wine.
More open, an interesting nose – pretty sweet red fruit. Full in the mouth with good freshness. The flavour is open and delicious – very easy drinking for a Côte de Nuits…
2018 Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
‘It’s changed our lives since the electric fence went up to dissuade the wild hoar!’ here 50% wc.
A little oak smoke on this – its 50% new. I like the drive and the shape, but there’s lots of oak showing today. Wait 2 years – but the structure and texture of this are fine – the balance too. A super finish – to wait for, but it’s the best!
Cork here except the Bourgogne which use synthetics. All the whites were bottled in October – so had 11 months elevage:
2018 Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvée Chanoines de Notre Dame
Named for the 200th anniversary of Jaffelin – that was in 2016.
Hmm – that’s a nicely fresh width of aroma with a faint and well-judged oak note. A little touch of gas, here but following is a nicely citric line of flavour – the oak a little more notable here. Good length – wait 12 months plus for the oak to fade….
2018 Montagny 1er Cru
A blend of more than one 1er. 40% new oak here.
A more discreet nose – faintly spiced ripe fruit – no overt oak. Also a hint of gas – super acidity – the oak, despite the amount, remains discreet, really showing itself only at the and of the palate – I’d still wait longer to facilitate it fading but this is lovely with fine, mouth-watering, balance.
Back down to 20% new oak for this one.
Another more discreet nose – here a core of riper fruit is visible. Less sweet, but equally driving acidity – a lime-shaded agrume fruit. Long, small waves of finishing flavour. This is super, just a modest accent of oak in the finishing flavours. Very good.
Hmm – more aromatic volume, lots of nice complexity here – it’s an invitation. Fine drive again, mouth-watering, a citrus note in the middle, indeed a certain minerlaity too. That’s an excellent peak of saline-edged finishing flavour – not quite the brilliance of 2017 but this is very fine.
Back to the more compact aromatics – again some citrus, this time more yellow. A little broader on the palate, again with a nice freshness. A lovely and persistent width of finishing flavour here – holding very well.
2018 St.Aubin 1er Sur Gamay
A little extra complexity on the nose – a core of ripe fruit but not too much. More mouth-filling volume – great width of flavour. I like the combination of energy and complexity. The texture is a little nicer too. A super intensity of finishing flavour.