Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 06 December 2019.
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61
Grégory on 2019:
“In 2019 we have almost 40% less in white and between 20-30% less for the reds.”
Grégory on 2018:
It was our first vintage in new cuverie. In 2018 the whites have already been racked into tank; I prefer two winters in barrel but I was sure that they are maturing faster so it was time to stop – they will probably be bottled before Christmas! I felt it was difficult for the wines, you had to be more rigorous and precise in terms of triage and elevage – the date of harvest was the most important thing, we mainly attacked from the start of September – there were no young vines that needed earlier attention. I agree the wines are tasting good, but you know me, I’m never really happy with things. Elevage in large format barrels has been one of the keys for me this year – no debourbage, no battonage, large barrels – my recipe for 2018. I think that you needed to make the 2003s to make good 2018s – so as not to make the same mistakes!”
As always, a high quality – even in 2018 – and with a sprinkling of great wines.
None of the whites have been sulfured yet:
2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Moutots
Origin from Chorey. It won’t be bottled until April.
An attractive, faintly herbal/floral blend of aroma. Ooh, that has a beautiful texture and a nice line, melting, mineral, gorgeous finishing for the label.
2018 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
Nicely fresh, good purity – slightly mineral and very inviting. Hmm. Nice line, slaine, bubbling with nice energy, mouth-watering, practically juicy. Excellent.
‘Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay! A lot of clay leads to richness here.‘
Hmm – that’s a lovely nose – wide, complex and pure – super. Ooh, that is like a 14! Beautiful in the mouth, gorgeous line, slowly melting – perhaps a little warmer fruit. Bravo!
2018 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
A bigger nose, more points of modest complexity. Fuller, there’s modest energy here – really an extra width of flavour I the middle and finish. Long, mouth-watering, really tasty if a little less finishing energy
2017 Beaune 1er Vignes-Franches Blanc
Only 25 hl/ha in 2017, 70-80-year-old vines that produced 25 hl/ha again in 2018! High maturity – about 13.5° – but low pH.
A silkier, slightly richer nose. Vibrant, mineral, complex, ooh – that’s really good. There’s a finishing richness without a hint of the heavy, long-lasting, holding very well. That’s super wine.
Second vintage of elevage without sulfur:
1902 the original planting by the grandfather of the current owner – 65% of the original vines still in place.
A big nose, but with a touch of elegance too. Hmm, that’s a little cushioned, beautifully fresh, so delicious but at the same time properly constructed, absolutely delicious and long – grand Vin for Chorey.
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Serpentières
Lost this contract for a while but now it’s back. Fun fact, the cemetery of Savigny is also classed as Serpentières 1er
High-toned, some wc perfume (there’s about half full bunch here). Round, supple, open, long. I prefer the definition of the Chorey but this is wide and delicious – not a hint of the ‘Savigny herb’ here. Excellent.
2018 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Probably the only producer of this.
Big, bright fresh, faintly meaty. Hmm, that’s rather good – a little my drying structure but wide, open, interesting, higher-toned freshness. Very long, for a little more patience but that’s got a lovely, long, almost haunting finish.
‘We normally cheer if we have 12° here, in 18 it was 12.8°.’
Hmm, a glossier freshness of dark fruit aroma. Hmm, this is fresh, bubbling with energy with a sneaky depth of flavour. Long, dark-fruited and fresh, spiced even, in the finish. Excellent again.
2018 Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Next to Chevalier’s Volazières, under Prieur’s Corton Bressandes
A little less aromatic volume but a fresh, dark and alive nose. This has a fine line and fresh energy – ‘elegant for an Aloxe’ – wide, but really a contemplative and complex finish – not a bit heavy. That’s a great finish!
2018 Volnay 1er Santenots
The first vintage… 28 August harvested, this the first parcel harvested. 12.7° but harvested because the pH was getting quite high.
A nose that opens and embraces. Hmm – a little richness balanced by freshness and width. A little wc perfume. (there’s about 25% wc) this is another fine example.
2018 Nuits St.Georges Les Charbonnières
Wide and fresh, practically there’s a lot of whole cluster here, but aromatically it’s not so overt. Sweet, open, a nice combination of intensity and width. The finish is really an impressive thing, much higher value here than a ‘simple’ villages! This has a high (14.5°) alcohol, but today that’s invisible!
5 different parcels, mainly higher in the village including the best named of all, Pas de Chat, opposite the cemetery again.
A big nose, airy, some energy, not overblown though also not super inviting. In the mouth that’s rather good though, some fresh sweetness – but not a cloying sweetness – layers of proper Chambolle flavour – ie delicious.
2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Jacquines
Close to Clos des Réas, south of appellation – 50% wc – but touched only once, a single pigeage. ‘With this wine it’s best to do nothing.’
This has a vibrantly ripe core of fruit. Not especially inviting but good and open. In the mouth, like the Chambolle, is a certain charisma, shape and fine definition. Wide and impressive finishing – you should wait longer than the Chambolle to start harvesting this wine from your cellar, but it’s excellent villages.
JCB vines, worked biodynamically by the team of Vougeraie. Owned since 2016.
Hmm, there’s a little extra invitation to these aromas vs the last two wines; faint wc perfume. Yes! Now that’s complex, delicious, perfumed, long. Plenty of whole-cluster but perfumes with nothing green. Great Villages!
‘From high. ‘It’s a wine that I just can’t domesticate!’
A big nose but not yet fully in place. Mouth-filling, decent balance, melting with flavour. Really some concentration here, and with layered, indeed beautifully perfumed finishing fruit. This has great potential, just a little less ready than the other wines. Bravo!
2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes
Hmm, that’s a great nose – one of dark-fruited clarity and invitation. Fine drive, a line, a little more width than definition, but this is a fine Chambolle, indeed more than excellent in the context of the vintage. Rather fine finishing too!
Harvested 3 Sept. 12.8°. This assembled.
Not an overtly large nose but a very elegant depth of proper red fruit – open and inviting – slowly evolving some wc. Hmm, clarity is my first though, width my second, airy but with depth, wc perfumed too.
Same contract for 17 years. On the limit with CSD.
Ooh – big, floral, what a great invitation, becoming more vibrant with air. Hmm, depth, texture, freshness – bravo. Growing in width, adding more and more, floral finishing too. Great wine – this always emblematic of JCB, but even more so in 2018!