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Domaine Dujac (Morey St.Denis)

DSC04545Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Jeremy Seysses, 27 June, 2014.

Domaine Dujac
7 Rue de la Bussière
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 01 00
www.dujac.com

It had been a while since I visited Dujac – the 2007 wines I think – so I left plenty of time either side of my appointment. As it turns out I arrived on the dot at 14h30, to which Jeremy, in the kindest possible way, confirmed that my appointment had actually been at 10h30. Oops!

Super accommodating Jeremy, however, said that I could join another group who were scheduled to taste, if that was okay – of-course it was okay! (Dumb, dumb…)

Anyway, to start the visit we stood in front of the vines outside the domaine and Jeremy said a few words about how the 2014s were faring: “We call this the ‘Clos de Cuverie’ but it’s really just lieu-dit Morey villages. It was planted in 1971 and we are normally looking for about 7 bunches per vine. We have some coulure as it was a little windy during flowering, the bunches look quite long though – maybe I’m just a little more sensitive about it, given the lower crops for the last 2-3 years.”

Dujac today is making wine from about 20 hectares of vines, and actually farming 15.5.

The wines…

The 2013s were partly in malolactic fermentation, so we looked at the domaine’s 2012s:

2012 Morey St.Denis
Despite a low crop for the domaine – the Chambertin (for instance) was only 15 hl/ha – the villages MSD had a practically normal yield.
The nose is dark, fruity and a little spicy. Here is a lovely core of intense fruit – the concentration seems to hold into the finish too. This is actually very long finishing. Yum!

2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Jeremy notes: “Since we have been organic in the vineyards we seem to have more reduction in the wines – actually quite a lot more reduction…”
The nose retains a certain freshness and shows a little soil and herb too. In the mouth it’s slightly mineral and very wide and penetrating. This is super-long!

2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
“From the northern-side of the vineyard, and for the detail conscious, this contains a tiny amount of Les Gaudichots” notes Jeremy. “It’s a vineyard that we have to think has a phenomenal quality possibility, so we always ak ourselves how will we reach that” he adds.
I find a little whole-cluster reference on the modest nose. Wide and very faintly padded with a spiciness and faint salty-tang. Mouth-watering finish. Hmm – very much a contemplative wine today.

2012 Clos de la Roche
The nose is deep and certainly more forward than the Malconsorts, with faint reduction and a little whole-cluster. The palate seems much more mineral and has a growing intensity. The flavour really takes a tight grip, holding-on right through the mineral finish. Very yum!

2012 Clos St.Denis
More stems were used in 12 versus 2013 – about 80%. Jeremy says with a smile – “we’ll wait to see if that was a good decision!”
Again there’s a whiff of stems and reduction but the overall impression is of a rounder aroma versus the Clos de la Roche. In the mouth it’s also rounder and fuller – a rounder texture too – if that makes sense. Again a salty tang and super length!
2012 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Monts Liusants (blanc)
Fresh, with modest core of ripe fruit. Lovely freshness in the mouth, with a growing, growing intensity. A mineral wine with an even more intense mid-palate and a silky finish. A nicely acid final aromatic note in the glass – very yum!
1990 Clos de la Roche
From a half-bottle.
Medium salmon colour. Simply gorgeous, beautiful fruit of fine clarity. Time in the glass and it becomes fuller but not more interesting. There’s a little minerality, clarity, depth and sweetness – the texture being somewhat cushioned. Superb in the finish, with gorgeous last aromatic notes too. A treat!

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