Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Jeremy Seysses, 27 June, 2014.
7 Rue de la Bussière
Tel: +33 3 80 34 01 00
It had been a while since I visited Dujac – the 2007 wines I think – so I left plenty of time either side of my appointment. As it turns out I arrived on the dot at 14h30, to which Jeremy, in the kindest possible way, confirmed that my appointment had actually been at 10h30. Oops!
Super accommodating Jeremy, however, said that I could join another group who were scheduled to taste, if that was okay – of-course it was okay! (Dumb, dumb…)
Anyway, to start the visit we stood in front of the vines outside the domaine and Jeremy said a few words about how the 2014s were faring: “We call this the ‘Clos de Cuverie’ but it’s really just lieu-dit Morey villages. It was planted in 1971 and we are normally looking for about 7 bunches per vine. We have some coulure as it was a little windy during flowering, the bunches look quite long though – maybe I’m just a little more sensitive about it, given the lower crops for the last 2-3 years.”
Dujac today is making wine from about 20 hectares of vines, and actually farming 15.5.
The 2013s were partly in malolactic fermentation, so we looked at the domaine’s 2012s:
2012 Morey St.Denis
Despite a low crop for the domaine – the Chambertin (for instance) was only 15 hl/ha – the villages MSD had a practically normal yield.
The nose is dark, fruity and a little spicy. Here is a lovely core of intense fruit – the concentration seems to hold into the finish too. This is actually very long finishing. Yum!
Jeremy notes: “Since we have been organic in the vineyards we seem to have more reduction in the wines – actually quite a lot more reduction…”
The nose retains a certain freshness and shows a little soil and herb too. In the mouth it’s slightly mineral and very wide and penetrating. This is super-long!
2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
“From the northern-side of the vineyard, and for the detail conscious, this contains a tiny amount of Les Gaudichots” notes Jeremy. “It’s a vineyard that we have to think has a phenomenal quality possibility, so we always ak ourselves how will we reach that” he adds.
I find a little whole-cluster reference on the modest nose. Wide and very faintly padded with a spiciness and faint salty-tang. Mouth-watering finish. Hmm – very much a contemplative wine today.
2012 Clos de la Roche
The nose is deep and certainly more forward than the Malconsorts, with faint reduction and a little whole-cluster. The palate seems much more mineral and has a growing intensity. The flavour really takes a tight grip, holding-on right through the mineral finish. Very yum!
More stems were used in 12 versus 2013 – about 80%. Jeremy says with a smile – “we’ll wait to see if that was a good decision!”
Again there’s a whiff of stems and reduction but the overall impression is of a rounder aroma versus the Clos de la Roche. In the mouth it’s also rounder and fuller – a rounder texture too – if that makes sense. Again a salty tang and super length!
Fresh, with modest core of ripe fruit. Lovely freshness in the mouth, with a growing, growing intensity. A mineral wine with an even more intense mid-palate and a silky finish. A nicely acid final aromatic note in the glass – very yum!
From a half-bottle.
Medium salmon colour. Simply gorgeous, beautiful fruit of fine clarity. Time in the glass and it becomes fuller but not more interesting. There’s a little minerality, clarity, depth and sweetness – the texture being somewhat cushioned. Superb in the finish, with gorgeous last aromatic notes too. A treat!