Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet with Caroline l’Estimé, 23 June, 2014.
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard
9 Place des Noyers
Tel: +33 3 80 21 31 68
At the time of writing, Caroline notes that 2014 has been a very dry vintage, and a little rain will be very welcome to the domaine’s young plantings.
Moving to 2013 and 2013, Caroline says that in 2012, due to successive visitations by hail at the beginning of June, July and August, they have only 25% of a normal crop. 2013 was better, it required hard work in the vines, but that rewarded the domaine with ‘almost a normal harvest volume.’ To try to make up some of the income gap, 2009s from stock are being offered with their 2012s. If you can find these 2012s – you are very lucky.
The work in the vines and cuverie is exactly the same as for their Chassagne-Montrachets, including a little new oak. Sous Eguissons is close to, and just above Saint Aubin.
The nose is fresh, and shows a concentrated spicy lemon note – maybe a little fresh grapefruit too. There’s super width here and very fine flavour that mixes with sweetly ebullient acidity. Good sweet fruit in the mid-palate too. Super!
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées
Villages wines were all bottled in December 2014.
Here the nose is more intense, and shows some herbs too – classic Chassagne. Wide and silky with lovely intensity of fruit. I like.
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroie
Here is a nose with more minerals and more heft – a strongly classic herby Chassagne. Rounder in the mouth, with a mouth-watering concentration that seems to develop from its core. Almost the impression of dry extract in the slowly lingering finish. This is less energetic than the Chenevottes, but it remains very well-balanced and tasty.
The aromas have width plus higher tones – faintly floral – lovely. The palate is more mineral with a finer, fresher acidity that just flows over the palate. Gorgeous!
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Boudriotte
Even higher-toned with a little more power too. In the mouth another wine distinguished by its fine freshness – a wine that grows with intensity, peaking in the super mid-palate. It’s rather silky too – very yum!
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Le Petit Clos
From within Morgeot.
Aromatically, there’s more width here, though my first impression is that it’s more diffuse. Very quickly it pulls itself together – it’s lovely. Fuller and richer – enough balance for sure – a broad-shouldered wine with fine depth. Long and mineral finishing. Super!
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
There’s a modest but very fine aromatic, packed with faint but pure fruit notes. In the mouth it’s silky, yet muscular. Growing intensity though it’s less energetic than some. The flavour seems to keep rolling over the tongue before leaving the impression of dry-extract in the finish. Quite lovely and highly contemplative.
Reds – the domaine normally has 12 casks, but there were only 4 from the 2012 vintage.
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean (Rouge)
Fresh, pretty red cherry fruit with a faint pepper. Full but full of energy too – it’s muscular but it’s not fat. Very good energy here. It’s still talking to me as it fades in the finish. Great fun!
The domaine is still selling Cremant from the 08 and 09 vintages, made with fruit from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune.