Tasted in Irancy with Stephan Podor, 11 June, 2014.
Stephan et Marie Podor
54 rue Soufflot
Tel. +33 3 86 42 34 64
This domaine, now into its 8th generation, has 10 hectares of vines. There’s a little cremant but otherwise it’s Irancy – and there’s about 5% of cesar in those vines.
It’s a manual harvest here and they vinify with the stems, but only for about 12 days of cuvaison – the fermentation is only about 5 of those days – so the stems are hard to spot in the finished wines. 2011 is the current vintage for sale here which Stephan notes as “A little light, but fruity.” There are a number of cuvées here, including a Mazelots from 75 year-old vines, plus many assembled plots for the ‘classic’ Irancy. Their ‘basic’ Irancy has a 1 year elevage and their ‘named’ cuvées of Mazelots and Palotte may have up to two years – in barrels sourced from a producer in Gevrey-Chambertin.
The majority of their sales are in France – most in the area of Paris – only 5% is exported.
The 12s here should be searched out – that is, when they eventually come onto the market!
The nose is a little herbaceous and there’s a little pyrazine too – it improves in the glass, adding a little tobacco and spice. In the mouth it’s a wide impression with only the faintest pyrazine element – actually there’s very good flavour here, particularly in the mid-palate – nice length too!
2011 Irancy Mazelots
This wine saw one year of barrel elevage (10 year-old barrels) and was bottled, unfiltered.
The nose is modest, yet deep and has a faint yeast element. Freshness and intensity – I like the attack. There’s a little more astringent tannin but more raw power too. This is a baby, but with potential.
Here’s another rather modest aromatic but with a roundness of shape. Fresh, with growing concentration and a lovely mid-palate ‘pop’ of flavour – that slowly lingers on a stony note. Good flavour here, and the last drops in the glass have a seriously lovely acid-cherry aroma.
Deeper colour. Very nice, typically Irancy, punchy, crunchy dark fruit – here with a little licorice too – lovely! In the mouth sweet but croquant and lots of freshness. Just a super flavour profile here. More discrete tannin. Excellent wine.
2012 Irancy Mazelots
Only 24 hl/ha from vieilles-vignes.
Beautiful depth of aroma here – very comely too. More tannin but with freshness and concentration behind – also croquant. Beautiful, mouth-watering flavour.
2012 Irancy Palotte
2-year-old barrel here.
More creamy barrel notes but still an engaging aromatic. THere’s the same in the flavour though the tannin is finer than the Mazelots. Seemingly a little non-standard Irancy given the barrel notes (today!) but a lovely wine all the same.
2005 Irancy Palotte
Stephan says that this vintage is the reference here but is very similar to 2012.
A deep and very nice dark fruit aromatic. This still ahs full tannin – like a baby – but it is very finely grained. LOvely mouth-watering fruit flavours. Slowly holding on in the finish. Despite the (my!) obvious pleasure, this is still a wine to wait for.