A merchant tasting, by Gerstl, in Bern 03 June, 2014.
All the wines were tasted in the order listed here. Where multiple vintages were offered, I tasted only the current (2012) vintage.
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Platières
Good depth of aroma with a nice dark cherry component. There’s energy and good concentration but not much fat. A lovely burst of fresh flavour in the mid-palate. Good length. A very tasty wine to start the day!
2012 Vosne-Romanée Charmes de Mazières
The nose pretty, if rather modest – though certainly with the requisite spice. Less sweet than the Gevrey, but maybe with a little more intensity. Wide in the finish – the off-ripe quality bringing plenty of freshness to the finish.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Very good colour. A modest but pretty aromatic. Croquant fruit of good depth. Fine mouth-watering flavour with plenty of dry extract in the finish. Super!
2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Anorther modest nose, but finely detailed, with a pretty, floral dimension. More structure and good freshness. There’s lots of mouth-watering, herby intensity here – and considerable length. The villages is prettier today, but this certainly has more length.
A modest but, again, very pretty aromatic – here augmented with an obvious mineral dimension. Fuller, rounder, much more concentrated. The mid-palate and length are also very mineral too. Hard to tell if it’s longer than the 1er Cru – but great wine none-the-less.
Domaine M et P Rion
2012 Bourgogne Les Bons Batons
The nose is round, with something just a little savoury in there. Also round in the mouth and quite well concentrated too – particularly for the label. The palate is quite soft, but the flavour is very good. Very good Bourgogne but not outstanding in the context of many great Bourgogne in this vintage.
A flighty nose that’s pretty and shows some red fruits and flowers – it’s very attractive. Fresh, with quite intense acidity – yet achieves balance with the rest of the flavour and structure. Very pretty flavours – yum! A super, mouth-watering finish too!
2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras
As pretty as the NSG was, here is also the added impression of a little extra texture – it’s super. PPerhaps it’s the same in the mouth too, but there’s much more structure here too. This is a very serious wine – blind you might this this the Nuits and the previous wine the Chambolle! Yet, very tasty again.
2012 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Argillières
The deep nose has a little licorice and reduction too. In the mouth it’s certain fuller and displays more tannin – though ripe and with crushed-velvet texture. Easily the most ‘serious’ wine here, and one with fine finishing flavour. Definitely a wine to wait for…
2012 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Gollardes
A deep colour. The nose has a depth of warm, dark-red fruit. Lithe and intense with very good fruit – indeed, lovely fruit. Wide with an extra mid-palate flavour. Yum!
A similar colour to the Savigny, but here’s a higher-toned nose. Much wider flavour and a little more texture – only slowly revealing its depth. A little more serious but with an impressive reserve of flavour.
2012 Beaune 1er Les Teurons
Lighter in colour. Here is a more airy aromatic with faint herbs too. Mouth-filling, with more tannin than the Pommmard – though seemingly fully-ripe. A super growth of flavour in the mid-palate and following into the finish. Lovely – but clearly another wine that will benefit from patience.
Domaine des Lambrays
2012 Clos des Lambrays
In bottle for 2 months.
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a little herb mixed into the whole-cluster aromatic – the perfume grows in intensity in the glass. Round, with a lovely, silky, slightly padded texture. Overall, lovely perfume and complexity in the mouth. Very lovely wine!
Domaine Thierry Mortet
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Vigne Belle
Finer nose thought still a little reductive – this time it seems to clear from the glass. A little more depth and concentration in the mouth – more tannin too. A modest, but round and ripe package.
2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Beaux Bruns
Here is a rather herby nose – far from classic Chambolle. Round, quite silkily textured – actually the flavour is rather nice, luckily – much better than it smell.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille
The nose is more intense and also has a mineral aspect – more freshness too – it’s really lovely. Round and mouth-filling. Plenty of concentration here with a base of ripe tannin. Fine length and super flavour. Yum!
Domaine Roger Belland
Here is a pretty, round, red nose overlaid with a few high tones. I like the concentration and density of flavour – of which there’s plenty in the mid-palate. Slowly mouth-watering. Good stuff!
The nose is a hint floral but with super depth too. Wide and the flavour has similarly good depth. I love the mid-palate flavour intensity. This is super and rather sophisticated – things are changing at this domaine…!
2012 Pommard Le Cras
Here is a very lovely aromatic – a slowly growing floaral dimension too. Wide, with very good depth of flavour – almost whole-cluster impression. The tannin is ripe and very well managed. Just an excellent villages Pommard. So much more sophistication in these wines than before.
This nose has more raw power, some herbs and a suggestion of flowers too. More density, more richness but it’s well-balanced though. Real mid-palate density too – very impressive for this vineyard – normally I prefer the Folatières…
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Wide aroma with some richness and slowly evolving higher tones. Super concentration, some richness, growing flavour – almost fireworks in the mid-palate. The flavour seems to fade quickly but then holds a long note. An impressive 2009.
Faintly reductive but there are plenty of herbs – slowly becoming more intense and airy. Full in the mouth, intense, mineral, herby – growing mouth-watering flavour. There’s a faint barrel-cream too. This is super!
Airy, flighty nose – it’s lovely. Wide and fresh with enough ripe intensity. The flavour grows and grows – this is a beauty. Again with a faint barrel-cream in the finish. Very yum!
2012 Meursault Les Terres Blanches
Aromatics are compromised by a reductive/barrel aspect – slowly fading in the glass and becoming a little more ‘Meursault.’ More concentrated than the Saint Romain and also well balanced. Very good wine that I’d decant just now.