Tasted in Irancy with Christophe Ferrari, 11 June, 2014.
Domaine Christophe Ferrari
7 chemin des Fossés
Tel. +33 3 86 42 33 43
Christophe Ferrari is head of the Irancy growers syndicate, and runs this 25 hectare domaine, of which 21 are in Irancy. The core of the domaine was some old family vines, but this was expanded in 2013 with the domaine of a retiring grower.
The grapes are hand harvested, which means that there can be triage at the vines and then again at the cuverie. Wines here are always destemmed and see a little prefermentation maceration – though less in 2013 as there was some rot. Christophe notes that “The 2013s have very lovely fruit and slightly less structure.” The fermentations are in thermo-regulated stainless-steel with pneumatic pigeage.
Very good wines here!
An assemblage of various parcels.
Round with silky, dark fruit aromas – it keeps getting prettier in the glass. Big and round with tasty fruit and lovely length. Lovely.
2012 Irancy Les Bergères
A south-facing parcel of 0.75 hectares which contains ‘a little’ cesar.
This starts with plenty of structure but becomes rounder in the glass. Still, it’s quite full and has plenty of tannin, but ripe tannin. The flavour slowly fades, narrowing to a point… Be patient, but should be good.
Also south-facing, but with a little more clay versus the Bergères. Here there’s 3% cesar.
A round and very pretty nose – almost textured and faintly truffled – just beautiful. Full and round in the mouth (again) though the tannin is a little more ‘covered’ by the fruit and a hint of licorice. Nicely fresh finishing, holding an intense line of flavour. This is slightly oak-influenced today, but that will soon be absorbed. Super.
The following wines were currently, commercially, available:
An early and ‘generous’ vintage.
There’s both a little asparagus and pyrazine on the nose. Wide flavour in the mouth with a little pyrazine here too. Not my favourite, despite more than interesting finishing intensity…
2011 Irancy La Bergère
This was bottled in July.
Here is a nose of more impact and more fruit – still a little pyrazine and some supporting oak too. In the mouth; round, generous and with finer flavour. The pyrazine element is very-much in the background here.
2011 Irancy La Paradis
This was also bottled in July.
The nose is quite discrete. In the mouth it’s more direct and more intense too – a long line of a wine – and a tasty one at that. Today, direct and one-dimensional. Time will be your friend here.
More depth of slightly darker fruit aroma and a faint coconut oak undertow – discretely complex. Round, ripely fruited and a little oak flavour again. Super fruit intensity. A great wine…
Just starting to develop the first impression of sous-bois – complex, dark and very fine. A lovely width of freshness and a (still) tannic texture – though the grain is fine enough and shows very little astringency. Long finishing – super wine again.
The nose is nice, but without the real interest of the 2006. If the nose is not particularly ‘giving’ the palate certainly makes up for it. There is width and the tannin is still alive, underpinning a wine that is fresh and complex. The nose just needed a little time in the glass as it slowly gets better and better. I still prefer the 2006, but this is fine!