Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet, with Sabine Mollard, 23 May 2022.
Domaine Marc Morey Fils
3 Rue Charles Paquelin
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 30 11
www.domaine-marc-morey.fr
More reports with Domaine Marc Morey
Sabine on 2021:
“We lost 60%!”
Sabine on 2020:
“So 20 was a good volume vintage – almost normal despite harvesting in August – but even finishing in August too. The way 2020 started kept me quite happy; The period around March-April was agreeable, allowing us to start our treatments in perfect conditions. Following a fine flowering, the sortie of grapes was super – we expected a big harvest. It was certainly warm afterwards but we experienced no problems. In July & August we had no rain at all. A very early harvest – we’ve harvested in August before but never finished in August as this year. The degrees were good, the results were better than we expected – we lost some volume, though in the end not too much, we still had a lot of bunches it was just that we had not a lot of juice in those bunches. So far, we have lower alcohols and better acidity than in the most recent vintages – we don’t have the impression of a hot vintage, we still waited 90-95 days from the flowering to the harvesting, not 80 or less. I have the feeling that the vines are slowly adapting to the change of weather – 2003 was something of a shock for the vines – not just us. But we have the impression of more balance each year that it’s hot.”
The wine…
A super address for 2020s. I asked if Sabine had any wine to sell – unfortunately, all was sold – but you could find some of her bottles in the ‘Cave Municipale’ in the village – a good tip, happily accepted!
All bottled and all sealed with natural cork:
2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Some négoce from Hautes Côtes, bought as grapes, to go with domaine vines in Chassagne.
Bright, forward and fresh. Mouth-filling, lots of sweetness and richness but a vibration of energy too. Very good length. That’s an excellent Bourgogne…
Also bottled – three parcels; Lombards, Pierre and Blanchots and a little declassified 1er from Virondots.
That’s very open, beautifully aromatic. Here is some weight of incisive flavour, still an accent of the barrel today but vibrant and mineral – you don’t get much better villages – bravo!
2020 St.Aubin 1er Le Charmois
This nose is more direct with a more herbed style to the freshness. Wide, silky, layered flavour – very generous but also with a vibrant minerality and length – again accented by the barrel – super quality.
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
A small, very noble, reduction – fresh and open again. Impact, generosity again, layers of flavour – an extra stony, inner dimension. Again a vibrant finishing flavour. Super wine again – great success at this domaine in 2020 it seems…
Narrower, deeper, more herb and mineral here. Wider more fluid and elegant – less generous – That’s next level middle and finishing flavour – bravo!
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
‘From Ez Crottes, we have red just below…’
More width, more impact more floral too. More power but with the energy for balance – really a wine flavour impact and a subtle reduction too. The first wine where I think I’d rather wait for it to calm – give it 2-3 years in the cellar first but this is a very impressive wine.
Vines right next to the village in vigne derrière. ‘Chenevottes is always good but Caillerets it depends – we got a good one in 17 though!’
The nose is small but no less interesting and airy. Fluid, gorgeous texture – a wine that works its way around your mouth filling all the places, mouth-watering and silky. Bravo!
Fresh wide, a more golden fruit style with some faint cooking-herbs. Rounder in the mouth – but only in shape as there’s no extra richness here. I prefer the fluidity and texture of the last today but here is more complexity and finishing energy – they are different but complimentary. Bravo
2020 Puligny-Montracxhet 1er Referts
Hmm – more floral style to this. There’s the silk of the Caillerets and a broader deeper middle and finishing flavour. That’s a beautifully put-together wine – simply excellent.
2020 Puligny-Montrechet 1er Pucelles
This nose is also really attractive – here with a little reductive note. Here with a modest extra structure and floral complexity to the flavours, too. Extra in the finishing flavours – another simply excellent wine – a pleasure.
Les Reds:
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet
That’s a beautiful first impression of direct, not too wide, dark red pure fruit. Supple, mouth-filling – really fine and a red Chassagne that you could drink today if you wish – no hard edges and with beautifully mouthwatering flavour in the finish.
Broader, wilder but also with more floral perfume – that’s super! Direct, sleek, saline, slowly widening with beautiful acidity – so mouth-watering – almost juicy energy. That’s also impressively drinkable yet still properly shaped. Bravo!