Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Julien Montagnon & Martin Sylvestre, 10 May 2022.
Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter
49 rue Henri Challand
21700 Nuit-Saint-Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 61 02 88
www.aegerter.fr
More reports with Jean Luc & Paul Aegerter
Martin on this year so far:
“On 2022, for the moment we touch wood. It’s not yet the St.Glace but we remain hopeful. It’s not been too bad – though we lost a little to the frost in Chablis.”
Martin on 2020:
“2020, compared to 2021, we had a better average yield – it had to be – we saw 70-80% losses in our whites and about 50% less volume for our reds in 2021. We think 2020 is a good vintage, a more opulent and warmer style of vintage. The small losses that we suffered were mainly due to the dryness of the summer contributing to less juice in the grapes. We are currently under conversion to organic – it’s our second year – and in parts with Demeter for biodynamic.”
The wines…
A small sub-set of their red cuvées but a fine set of wines – two worth a special search. Likewise the whites, here showing more of the vintage variation – though one seemed overly oxidative – the second bottle too…
Just one or two wines remain in tank, assembled, but the rest are bottled now. The tasting only complicated by the mix of vintages shown:
Ooh – that’s a lovely and vibrant fruit aroma – it has depth too – sweet but floral and super-attractive. A little softness but fresh and mouth-filling. So wide and lasting – bravo! Modest stony flavour, a hint of barrel too in this finish – but great, great Bourgogne…
2019! Beaune 1er Grèves
Airy, floral – growing in width – such fine clarity here. So silky, a warm suggestion of caramel to these open and tasty flavours. That’s simply excellent wine – really delicious.
From haut, en fermage, only 2-year-old barrels used here with 18 months of elevage.
A narrower but deeper nose – extra floral perfume for the top notes – really classy. More mineral and cooler fruited – energetic wine growing in concentration over the palate. Super finishing – practically great wine here – just a faint drying from the grainless tannin. Bravo…
2020 Nuits St.Georges #4 Pinot Noir
The 4 best barrels from their 1.8 ha Nuit parcel in Plateau, bottled in February in a very heavy bottle.
A smoky width of oak, below a silky impression from the fruit. Bright, direct, a growing cascade of mouth-watering flavour. This is properly juicy finishing and already very tasty. I’d wait 3+ years for the oak additions to fade a little more but this has really super character.
2019 Nuits St.Georges 1er Rue de Chaux
Some of these vines were planted in 1964. ‘We habe also some 1er cru Rue de Chaux.’ 30% new oak here with a mix of 3 coopers. Bottled in January.
Hmm, not as open but a nose that pulls you in with a cherry stone and growing purity. Wide, relaxed flavour that melts over the palate. A growing peak of acidulated flavour in the finish – again – such an excellent wine.
Les Blancs:
“I like some attack and depth but to finish with a mineral and saline side,” says Paul Aergerter:
2021! Chablis Or
Ready to be bottled. Mainly villages but with a little Côte de Lechets too.
A direct and fresh mineral style to this nose. Yes – direct. Growing intensity, love the tension here – just a joyous wine to drink – give it 6 months but it’s already lovely…
2020 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Aux Vignerais
A mix of elevage types but mainly 450-litre barrels.
Starting with a little barrel smoke but aeration bringing the perfume of the wine more to the fore. Great mouth-filling shape – beautifully mineral wixed with some oak flavour. Slowly fading. Another wine to wait for – I’d give this a couple of years before returning – but a lovely wine, it could be excellent.
2020 Pernand-Vergelesses
2 climates – Combottes and Belles Filles – not a big yield so assembled.
Also a little smoky oak but here with more overt energy – it should calm a little! Proper impression of PV in the mouth and that’s despite plenty of oak flavour again. Mineral and long, mouth-watering finishing. This should be very good.
2019! Beaune 1er Reversées
An airy freshness here – if it had smoky oak like the others it’s already been absorbed – today more a stony fruit core. Mouth-filling, good texture. A fresh and tasty wine less direct focus than the previous wines – that’s the vintage!
2020 Puligny-Montrachet
Again an assembly of parcels.
A higher-toned nose – a little impression of oxidative development – there are no DIAMs here. Super shape in the mouth, nice tension – here it’s super. Bottle 2 – the nose is aromatically better, showing tension too – a super finishing burst but again here just a suggestion of oxidation…
2019! Puligny 1er Champs Gains
A calmer, wider nose – fine fruit here – just missing a little aromatic tension. Calm, melting flavour in the mouth – a little muscle and an impressive length to this finish. A little more energy and precision would be welcome but this is still a super wine.
2020 Corton-Charlemagne
Back to a nose with some smoky dimension and a more subtle but sneakily impressive width. Direct, though slowly filling every space in the mouth. That’s a super middle and finish – a wine of elegance but also impressive complexity. Keep this at least 2-3 years and then enjoy!