Tasted in Marsannay with Laurent Pataille, 30 May 2022.
Domaine Laurent Pataille
14 rue neuve
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
Tel: +33 3 80 52 26 97
Laurent is the younger brother of Sylvain Pataille – three years separates them. As the BIVB would have it, Laurent shares the same address with Sylvain in Marsannay too – at least for domaine correspondence.
Laurent studied viticulture and enology in Beaune, following that up with an enology degree from Dijon. He has worked in Saint-Emilion, Alsace and Pouilly-Fumé – it was in Pouilly where he was inspired to make a high density planting for his Marsannay Blanc. He returned to Marsannay to work with his brother, Sylvain, in 2008 as Sylvain was short-handed at the time – and he never left.
Laurent himself, has just 1 hectare of vines, mainly in Marsannay but a small area in Fixin too. “I started in 2010 using plenty of whole clusters with just a little destemming.” It will come as no surprise that he has worked his vines organically since 2010 – and he began certification in 2020.
His wines are almost all exported to Japan – he has a Japanese wife – so are very hard to find – having only 1 hectare doesn’t help either!
The wines…
Endearing wines – wines of character – like the man. Highly recommended!
Laurent makes 5 different cuvées and I managed to taste 4 of them. Of course, all these are bottled:
2019 Marsannay Es Chezots
A cushioned nose with a fine whole-cluster perfume. Big in the mouth – wide, sinuous not fat. Slowly fading – delicious wine.
2019 Marsannay Longeroies
Less aromatic impact but with more width and tons of elegance. Fine, fresh energy – a direct wine not a wide wine. Juicy flavoured.
In Bas Chenevières but it’s not indicated on the label
Also very aromatic. Super elegant, so mouth-watering – full of rose-inflected perfumed flavour. Not powerful – but great!
2019 Marsannay Blanc Vingt Mille
Also from Es Chezots, 20k planting density – chardonnay rose
A concentrated, golden fruit, style. Great shape in the mouth, super texture again. Golden fruit style again on the palate – a wine of presence. Very good stuff!