Tasted in Maligny, 29 April, 2014 with Clément Lamblin and Perrine Grulet.
Lamblin & Fils
Rue Marguerite de Bourgogne
Tel. +33 (0)3 86 98 22 00+33 (0)3 86 98 22 00
Based in the town of Maligny, Lamblin Fils is one of Chablis’ oldest estates. The family, now into its 12th generation, and can trace its Chablis roots back to 1690. Since 1987 it was Michel & Didier Lamblin who worked together. In 2003, Clément, who, studied viticulture and oenology in Beaune, joined his father Didier. Alexandre, son of Michel, joined him in 2005.
The domaine of today was actually created by Henri Lamblin in 1920; Henri was also involved the setting up of the AOC system. Henri’s son, Jacques, developed the export market and in 1973 moved the domaine to its current premises – the old premises in Maligny could not be expanded sufficiently. Today there is something like 1.3 million bottles produced, about 850k of which is Chablis, the rest is a mix of merchant bottles that also includes a range of wines from the Côte d’Or. The domaine, as such, is only about 7 hectares of vines, but production of Chablis amounts to the equivalent of 90 hectares worth.
I find quite a family resemblance / style to these wines. They are concentrated, a little padded and offer a balanced richness. They are not for people who are looking for the ultimate in energy and minerality, rather for those looking for wines of weight and texture.
2012 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
From ~35 year-old vines.
The nose is a little soft with some ripeness. Also ripe fruit on the palate with a modestly mouth-watering impression. A discreet, non-flashy wine with plenty of flavour, indeed, there’s a small reprise of flavour in the finish too.
2012 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From one parcel of vines actually in Vaillons.
There seems a faint, nutty reduction and equally faint core of sweetness and a slight salty coating. Wide, with some fat and quite a silky texture. There is a growing intensity of flavour – again with a style that tens towards richness and concentration over ‘overt’ energy and acidity – but really good dry extract in the finish.
2012 Chablis 1er Beauroy
Actually from Troesmes.
Wide and detailed aromatic, with good concentration though like the previous wines, without a high-toned, fresh, element. Again quite silky, concentrated and with a slowly growing concentration. Becoming more mineral and intense in the glass. The acidity confidently, if discretely bubbling below the surface. A good reprise of flavour again. Very long. A good wine.
2012 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
The nose is modest to the point of being tight – just a faint freshness. Round, cooler fruit, growing density and intensity. Again a fine and soft texture. More ‘classic’ but from the same family as the previous wines.
2012 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Here are some higher-toned aromatic notes; ripe lime-skins and a faint salinity. Quite mineral and with a growing presence of acidity. Softly textured, some richness. Discretely, this is very long.
2012 Chablis Les Clos
Fresh, ripe and green fruit – plenty of detail and clarity here. Lovely, sweet and mouth-watering acidity. Rich and round with fine balance. Good extract in the long finish too. Again very, very long on a discrete note.