Tasted in Chablis with Romain Bouchard, 14 April, 2014.
Pascal Bouchard/Damien et Romain Bouchard
Parc des Lys
Tel. +33 (0)3 86 42 18 64+33 (0)3 86 42 18 64
Domaine Pascal Bouchard covers 33 hectares of vines. Romain and Damien are the fifth generation of this family. The main part of their vines were planted by Pascal Bouchard during the early 80’s; their oldest vines (Les Clos, Fourchaume, Montmains) were planted by André Tremblay during the 50’s and 60’s. Romain also produces 2 organic wines. Roman also notes that “We are looking for clean, fruity wines. Acidity we can have. Maturity we can have. But for concentration and intensity we need vine-age.”
Romain on yields:
In 2012, yields were about -20% versus the average. 2013 was more like -60%!
Négoce – 50% of the production and blended with must from other producers.
The nose is fresh with some concentration of herbs. Round and also quite concentrated in the mouth; silky, with a hint of salt and finishing quite sweet. Good wine.
2012 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Domaine – machine harvested. From vines above 40 years old and bottles in September.
Fresher nose than the 2013, again with some herbs. Lovely intensity and concentration with some dry extract and minerals showing. This is very, very good.
2012 Chablis 1er Beauroy
Domaine, from the steep part of Côte de Savant, planted in 1990. Elevage in stainless-steel
The nose has fruit and flowers – agrumes too. The palate is silky and linear – I like this style – it’s not explosive, but there’s a nice ‘pop’ of flavour in the mid-palate. It’s not super-long, but it is very tasty.
Domaine – made in 100% (old) barrels.
Also a little agrume aroma and a little extra sweetness too. Super intensity – brilliant today! There’s a little modest barrel sweetness too in the finish but this is glorious and energetic today.
2011 Roman Bouchard, Chablis 1er Vaux de Vey
Vines planted in 1970, Organic certified since 2010. Same aspect as the Montmains but a different valley and a steeper slope – often the last to be harvested.
Lots of herbs on the rather forward nose that has an aspect that seems almost like pyrazine – eventually I settle on asparagus. In the mouth there’s really good intensity – this could be a 2012. Quite tasty.
2011 DRB, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A boutique négoce label since 2010. Pretty-much sold-out to pre-existing customers. Harvesting done by this team and the elevage for this in 50% oak (old).
A deeper aromatic. Wide on the palate with lovely acidity. Less explosive than the 2012s but pretty-much the same level of intensity. Lovely wine.
Domaine – 1.25 hectares – with elevage in old barrels.
It’s a crisp, herby nose that eventually shows a note of acid cherry. Silky, with lovely, lovely intensity and real mid-palate weight and an obvious dry extract in the finish. Super wine.
2011 Chablis Blanchots – Domaine
Slightly padded nose with a little asparagus. In terms of ‘delivery’ this reminds me (again) of a 12 – super acidity and concentration and a steely flavour that adheres to your tongue too. Super.
2011 Chablis Vaudesir
South-facing vines, replanted in 1990. Normally the first site to be harvested.
Warmer, sweeter nose – yet still fresh. a tar-like note at the core. Again silky, the same forceful but flavourful acidity as the Blanchots – but slightly rounder. Here again is quite some dry extract in the finish.
2011 Chablis Les Clos
Domaine – 0.6 hectare plot planted in 1964 – the yields are normally only 25 hl/ha, but in the last 2 vintages more like 15-20.
A deep and ripe nose with some pyrazine-style asparagus. Super acidity and intensity – spit or swallow – you have to choose. Modest intensity length, but nothing modest about the length itself! Very good!