The nose starts with an off-putting cheesy/metallic note, swirling gets rid of this to reveal a mix of red and black shaded fruit that becomes more complex and pure by the minute – Bouchard own vines in 21 of the 44 Beaune Crus, most are represented in this wine. Fat but fleet of foot the fruit flavours are shaded towards black and backed up by velvetty tannin and nicely balancing acidity. This is usually a reliable wine but is really quite something in 2003.