Griotte-Chambertin

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red, only fading a little. The nose starts just a little woody but this quickly fades to give a true griottes nose of focused red fruit. The palate has good fat and perfect acidity. The tannins, though smooth, are more present than in either of the other two cuvées. Despite everything being in place this wine is more one-dimensional than the others – needs more time – perfectly enjoyable for that and very good wine.

1993 Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The only wine not decanted – and didn’t it show, Medium-plus ruby with a trace of amber at the rim. For around 15 minutes this wine had absolutely no perceptible smell – eventually a beautiful pure redcurrant and griotte nose came through, all the while increasing in intensity. Perfect acidity and slightly rasping tannins which subsided with time. There is understated red fruit of medium concentration that lingers well but not much more that I can add. Unfortunately this wine was ‘sacrificed’ – doesn’t seem to have the class or the concentration of the wines above or ’93 Drouhin wine, but it is closed tight shut so I’ll reserve judgement for another day. Requires at least 2 hours in a decanter or better still 3-5 more years somewhere cold and dark – still I’ve got two more chances of getting this right!

1993 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby with some colour development towards the rim. Understated, almost closed nose – just a little red fruit. Lovely weight to the concentration – vying with 1995 here. Just a little more acidity and very fine and smooth tannins. Still far too young. I think this just gets the nod over the 1995 – but it’s a close call!

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