Tasted in Meursault Champs Lins with Brigitte & Thomas Berthemelot – pictured right – and to the left their new technical director, Pierre. 17 October 2023.
Domaine Brigitte Berthelemot
24 Rue des Forges
BP 30008
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 68 61
www.domaineberthelemot.com
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More reports with Domaine Brigitte Berthelemot
Brigitte and Thomas on 2023 and 2022:
“This year – the 2023s – we are very happy. We also had more volume than in 2022 – particularly for the reds. 2022 was a vintage with no major worries – 23 was more stressed – also during the harvest as the maturies grew so quickly.
“The 2022s many are bottled, we do at the end of July for the whites – we’ve been using this timing for a while and like the freshness. There wasn’t a lot of malic acid and, probably because of that, the malos were done very quickly. The reds still wait in tank for bottling… So some good volumes but we’re not yet in a stock situation that lets us take on new clients!!”
The wines…
Such a wide range of wines at this domaine that they show me a different selection every year – but always excellent, well-made stuff!
Sealed, since 2019, with DIAM – 5 and 10 – 54mm for the 1er & grand crus:
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Frétille
More south than east facing.
Fresh, delicate, detailed – a very pretty complexity of citrus aromas here. Some proper structure here too – almost an impression of reduction in this complexity. Balanced and mouth-filling, almost a bitter orange skin impression. Very tasty!
2022 Meursault
This year, two parcels, principally from Narvaux plus some Vireuils – so higher vines.
Airy, silky, yellow fruit again. A little rub of tannin with this one – more agrumes – like the last almost an austerity with these bitters that will reward you after a year or two in bottle before opening – all DIAM of course here. A wider finish with some power and again with that orange-zest.
2022 St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien
A more airy breadth to this nose. Nicely structured with meting, juicy, flavour cascading over the palate – then a burst of salt-tinged flavours with plenty of finishing citrus bitters. Very lovely wine.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er La Garenne
Smaller but beautifully elegant aromatics. A hint of cushion to this flavour – this padding covering the structure so less visible that the Chien. Supple, clean, and delicious finishing lovely citrus/agrume complexity here. Yes!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
Here with a little more weight and width to the aroma. More direct, mineral, crystalline even. Softer starting, more mineral and juicy in the finish. Essentially still a very elegant style and more than subtly long. Another delicious thing
2022 Corton-Charlemagne
Broader with a large extra freshness. Properly structured wine almost a little rigour here – but intense, lightly herbed, again with lots of citrus-skin complexity. A long finishing note narrow but holding very long. The finishing tannin more granular but very fine. Always a worthy bottling here – in 2022 it is excellent!
Les Red:
All wines tasted from tank:
2022 Volnay
From Le Village
Modest colour but a far from modest, beautifully clean nose – that’s a fine invitation. Stricter than the nose suggests with plenty of structure but a style that melts across the palate – mineral and precise – faint creamy oak in the background. Lovely wine.
2022 Santenay 1er Maladière
That’s a wonderful perfume – great! Also stricter than the nose suggests but more accommodating from the start vs the Volnay. I still prefer the finishing flavours of the Volnay but the aromas of this wine are simply great!
2022 Pommard
Principally younger vine (30 ish) Noizons plus some Bas de Saucilles.
A nice attack of fresh red fruit on this nose. Broader and another step up in textural comfort – that’s already an approachable wine – not just a delicious one. Super villages…
2022 Pommard Noizons
From the much older vine section – roughly 100-years-old – with a little wc too
The nose is darker and faintly spicy – certainly more direct – still perfumed. Also structural but very nicely approachable again. Framed with a fine, almost grainless tan. Simply an excellent villages.
2022 Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches
Direct but aromatically still a little shy yet with a fine purity of darker red fruit and becoming ever-more perfumed with air. The best shape of all in the mouth – there’s a certain clarity and fluidity to these flavours – mineral and mouth-watering towards the finish. The texture part silk nearly velour with a tiny, tiny grain of tannin. That’s a simply excellent wine again!