Tasted with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay, 21 April 2023.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75
www.domainedangerville.fr
More reports with Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Guillaume on 2022:
“Very happy – it’s perhaps a little behind 2020 right now but it’s already very close.”
Guillaume on 2021:
“A quarter of our normal harvest – just like 2016 – but it’s a different quarter! In 2016 the frost came at the end of April and hit mainly the villages and regionals when most already had bud-break – in 2021 it was the start of April when almost only the 1ers had bud-break so it was those that got hit – so there’s 75% less wine – it’s much more painful than that financially though. I’m not a believer in the candles and with snow and -4°, -5°C we chose not to protect. The wines are all natural – no chaptalising – but still with 12-12.5°. All the bottlings are done – just a little earlier than typical – we finished only a couple of weeks ago – perhaps a month early in 21 but we felt that there was no reason to wait… ”
The wines…
Brutal volumes in this vintage but such fine wines. Regardless of their pricing, you will be lucky to find some…
Clos des Angles had only 2 barrels instead of 12 – so not shown – likewise there was only 1 barrel of Caillerets. The missing wines are bottled in magnums which will be sold in a mixed case (of 3) – 150 cases for the world:
A super direction and purity to this nose – very impressive, clarity of red fruit. Mouthfilling with a suggestion of rustic tannin but then it melts over the palate. That’s a fine, quite airy but top Bourgogne from the perspective of clarity and precision.
Modest colour but there’s nothing modest about the width and depth of aroma – a small grain to the complexity. Fuller, slightly rounder – more generous – the second half of the flavours are very floral – absolutely classic. Like the Bourgogne, lite but great!
2021 Volnay 1er Cru
Has Mitans and Pitures in the blend – completely different terroirs, high and low but a historic cuvée of the domaine. In this vintage, there are no declassified young vines
A little extra breadth to this perfume. The structure is more present – the shape and even a slight minerality – interesting flavour in the middle – quite perfumed and very long.
2021 Volnay 1er Fremiets
More aromatic depth – this needs a small swirl – but the perfume is obvious. Hmm – open and so delicious – vibrant finishing… Give this time to settle…
A lot has been replanted.
A little evident extra concentration – still not a wide nose but one with admirable clarity. Wide, with the classically mineral style of Taillepieds and a finish that just keeps broadening – and so persistent – another wine – perhaps all of them – I would be thinking of keeping for at least 5 years – but they are only just bottled, of course. Top.
2021 Volnay 1er Champans
‘I never know which of these three is higher in the hierarchy – it depends on the vintage – that’s why I price them the same!’ – Guillaume d’Angerville
More aromatic width after the verticality of Taillepieds – and so inviting too. Yes, juicy – vin dangereux – faintly framed with a grain of tannin – super wine!
A seamless, more direct – as opposed to vertical – style of aroma. Ultra-pure red fruit, almost a twist of (blood) orange citrus in there. A wine that opens out over the palate – absolutely compelling and despite the elegant finesse – another level of complexity. Also, another wine with a slightly creamy finish. Bravo!
And to finish…
2003 Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
The nose starts with lots of sous bois but turns more and more perfumed, faintly metallic too. Large scale – certainly a more rustic structure to the 21s – but direct, concentrated and surprisingly juicy in the finish. That’s simply a super wine – and only part way along its journey – a treat!