Tasted with David Moreau in Santenay, 19 April 2023.
Domaine David Moreau
4 rue de la Bussière
21590 Santenay
Tel: +33 3 80 20 61 79
www.bourgogne-david-moreau.com
More reports for Domaine David Moreau.
David on 2021:
“For the 2021s we have to try to be reasonable with the prices – we lost 2/3rds, making roughly 15 hl/ha. We had to be very careful with the sorting – removing the dried berries. I decided to bottle in mid-January – I didn’t want to age the wines too long as they were fresh and bright – so I didn’t want to dry them out. I think that 2021 is a vintage that you can compare to 2017 but I also think I have some extra depth of flavour in 2021.”
The wines…
It is always a pleasure to taste with David – it seems that his most basic wines are usually excellent but with a peppering of properly great ones too for their labels!
2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Sous Montot
A single vineyard on west-facing soil – ie towards Santenay. We have to pick a little later but I prefer that to making a Bourgogne in the deeper soils.
Deep, faintly spiced. Big shape, structured but tasty wine, lip-smacking flavour. Deliciously rustic!
2021 Maranges Au Gryphée
A mix of premier and village wine – almost half is 1er cru
Much more perfumed. Broad and fuller than you expect in the mouth – supple and generous too. Delicious and quite powerful. This is a lovely wine.
3 blocks blended.
A more direct nose, there’s fine perfume of whole-cluster roses. I love the structure, it’s here gorgeously flavoured too – bravo!
2021 Santenay Les Hâtes was too frosted to make a cuvée.
Two parcels, one in Les Cornières (mainly) and one smaller one in Les Charmes.
A fuller nose that’s very nicely perfumed again. More direct flavours, certainly a little more structural but with a lovely mouth-watering finish that’s slightly mineral too – that’s another great villages but I give even more love to the previous!
Planted in 1990 but not the balance that David liked until 2016 – the first vintage.
A silkier width of aroma. More dynamic, the acidity showing more mouth-watering energy – super structure delicious almost chalky finishing. Top!
2021 Santenay 1er Clos Rousseau
Meagre soil, sometimes only 10cm. 15-20% wc like in the Cuvée S.
A fuller perfume still of roses. Rounder, very finely shaped with very well-hidden structure – beautifully aromatic finishing again.
2021 Santenay 1er Beauregard
The vines on a steep slope here. These vines at 350 metres on very white soil.
Broad, less generous but attractively complex – incisive, darker fruit, super breadth of delicious flavour!
2021 Santenay 1er Clos des Mouches
Between Hâtes and Gravières but here is lower on the slope, still mid-slope with redder soils and some hard limestone. Just 3 ha so not a lot of producers.
Airy aromatics of pretty red fruit and roses. A little more structure but still very red fruit a very fine tannin here – hardly any grain though a slightly chalky texture. Long and saline – another beauty.
2021 Pommard Les Digonelles
A blend of two parcels.
Also perfumed but a different style of perfume. Extra width to the flavours here – they are pure and precise – elegant and very long. Super wine.
Les Blancs:
2021 Bourgogne Aligoté
Just 20% oak in the elevage
A vertical nose – rather mineral. Hmm, thats vibrant, juicy delicious wine – simply excellent aligote
2021 Santenay Les Prarons Blanc
Near Chassagne, lots of millerandes. Only older barrels used for elevage
There’s a touch of oak on the nose. Sparkling with energy – a delicious wine, despite a hint of oak flavour…
2021 Santenay 1er Beaurepaire Blanc
All 350 l barrels but no new oak this vintage.
A little metallic reduction to start – growing with a faint caramel note too. Super shape – architectural – very nice clarity too – lovely.
2021 Meursault Les Pellans
Bottom of the hill bellow Charmes, old vines with lots of virus so tiny millerande grapes.
Extra breadth – a grain of salinity – slowly a more floral note too. A more muscular – lithe muscle – again with a lovely floral extra in the finish. Beautiful villages…
And to finish…
2020(!) Santenay 1er Beaurepaire
There is power and depth to this fruit – darker fruit than the 21s too. The tannin frames these flavours with a little grain but almost no dryness. A wine with structure but nothing austere – for the table but excellent wine.