Medium yellow. The nose majors on depth – slightly oak influenced – and little else despite time in the glass. The wine is concentrated, with a citrussy intensity on the mid-palate, but always remains absolutely linear. The acidity has an edge of harshness but contributes well to the good length. Like the 2002, this was drinking much better last year – that lift of sweetness is now gone – I would let these rest in the cellar for a couple of years now.

Medium golden colour. In contrast to the 2002 this is much more reticent on the nose but offers a much more complex mix. The density is almost to the same level as the 2002, though this time it’s delivered in a much more understated way, perhaps a more silky delivery too. Again nicely balanced and very tasty.