The aromas are instantly panoramic, a little mineral and of fresh flowers, not as ’round’ as the Montrachet. In the mouth this is totally different; narrower (relatively!), more mineral and perhaps more muscular – just the same character as the red Le Corton – long and wiry. Supple and perfectly balanced, showing fresh flavours all the way into the finish. Really high-level Charlemagne.

From magnum. Medium golden. A nose that eventually gave up a creamy width and some savoury tones but consistently focused on the mineral. The palate was likewise mineral with good acidity and a number of waves of flavour prolonging the finish. Vibrant and tasty and stayed strong in the glass for the 2 hours we were together.

Aromatically a little deeper, with fewer high-tones. This is more mineral and with more acidity defining the spine of the wine. This is also superbly long and perhaps with even better focus. It’s driven by minerality rather than the waves of creamy fruit of the Chevalier. Today I would drink the Chevalier, but in 10 years? I’ll duck the question, but I’d love to make the comparison!

Fine, focused, linear fruit and some minerality on the nose. This was harvested quite late as the Bouchard vines sit high on the hill. Wow – the mid-palate concentration is exceptional here. The length is understated in flavour – quite mineral – but lingers fantasticly.

Bottled in January, 2-3 months after the other whites. The vines are at the fop of the hill and north-east facing, Philippe believes that this cooler spot helped to preserve acidity this year. Lovely nose, hints of green, cream covered apricots. Instantly classic palate with tons of complexity – really good mouthfeel. The finish is a strong one, fading only slowly. A very good wine that speaks more of Corton-Charlemagne than of 2003 – excellent.

From the top of Le Corton. Three passes through the vineyard for this wine, each vinified separately then assembled prior to bottling. Faint toast on the nose plus even fainter appley notes. Really intense palate, very full and fruity. Lovely length too. Really super.