Just a little darker in colour. The nose goes darker and deeper; a hint riper and no cedar but clearly a few diffuse alcoholic overtones. In the mouth it’s fuller with an edge more tannin and acidity that is slightly tart – it’s not a problem, just it’s personality. On the back of the acidity is a little burst of intensity on the mid-palate before fading into the finish. Less smooth than the 2001 but more material. I look forward to making another comparison in a few years.
2002
2002 Jadot Louis Bourgogne Blanc
2002 l'Abbaye du Petit Quincy Bourgogne Epineuil Cuvée Juliette
A wine that could easily win the award for the longest name in any report – I didn’t have room for the few words at the bottom of the label – Domaine Dominique Gruhier, vigneron à Epineuil. So to the wine. Generously deep cherry-red colour. The nose is high-toned cherry with an edge of black to the fruit over a mineral background. Fresh palate, reasonably intense, tart fruit with a really interesting tannic background – but only from the mid-palate onwards. It’s a rather mineral finish, but of some length and texture from those tannins. Very well put together and very nice.
2002 Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
Medium cherry-red. The nose is very forward; high-toned cherry and quite some depth too. A completely different wine to the 2003 version in that it hasn’t the same level of concentration, but is much more classic and fresh. Very nicely balanced, good acidity and sweet fruit of a concentration that belies the appellation. Understated tannins and a good finish – a hearty recommendation for this wine.
2002 Groffier Robert - Père et Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Shiny medium cherry-red colour. Sweet cherry skins over an earthy base, perhaps a transient note of oak toast. The palate has a little more density and sweetness vs the Bourgogne Epineuil that came before it. The acidity is pretty good with a not-bad finish, though frankly this needs just a little more to provide excitement. Well crafted and a nice wine but just a little dull
2002 Jadot Louis Bourgogne Blanc
Medium yellow. The nose is sweet smelling once the oak disperses, a mix of pineapple and the exotic. The palate has good acidity and a real burst of ripe, cream edged fruit. The length is almost good. Whereas the 01 is about minerality this is about sweet, ripe fruit. Excellent bourgogne, I expect lots of ‘outings’ for this over the coming months.
2002 Arnoux Robert Bourgogne Aligote
2002 Mortet Denis Bourgogne Blanc
Medium yellow. The nose starts sweet, heavy and a little soapy. Very good density for a bourgogne with a ripe sweetness on the palate – quite a bit of material here. The finish is reasonably long but there’s a hint of something oxidised – almost like a sweet 10 year-old! Two hours after opening there’s no trace of that oxidised note and the wine is excellent for it’s level. Excellent bourgogne, but I’d be just a little concerned by that opening impression so wouldn’t leave them hanging around in the cellar too long.
2002 Duband David Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Pale-medium yellow in colour. The nose betrays some oak on opening, but 10 minutes later this is well to the background, then shows a nice blend of high tones, a little white blossom and a sweet but subtle pear note. Well balanced with good acidity and a very round and smooth personality. Medium finish with just a little burst of high-toned fruit. Lean, smooth and understated but very well made. This would make an excellent house wine. In the context of ‘Burgundy’ this is fine value, in the context of a faintly oak-based Chablis (which it resembles) then it is ‘only’ very good value – that’s a compliment by the way…