Medium, medium-plus colour. Also rather tight but there’s a more caramel depth surrounding the tight core of glossy fruit. The structure initially seems completely separate to the fruit – then both come together perfectly. This super wine is clearly vin de garde material, so keep it in the cellar for a few years.
Clair Bruno
2005 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode
2005 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques
1997 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode
2002 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques
In hindsight it was more of a mistake not to ask for larger glasses in the restaurant than to delay the request for a decanter – this wine was a missed opportunity. Over about 90 minutes the wine never opened out on the nose, subdued aromatics of red fruit with a faint black edge. From time-to-time I imagined more, but then it was gone. The palate is that of a perfectly balanced, linear light-middleweight that is fine of tannin and shows good freshness. On this outing the length is also unremarkable. Too tight for interesting.
1998 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode
Drunk directly following Leroy’s Bourgogne of the same year and more interesting in every dimension. Deep, meaty yet sweet fruity nose with an edge of vanilla. Good mouth perfume, fresher yet without the tart aspect of the Leroy. Concentrated, still some quite dry tannin but it’s well covered by the fruit. Long finishing, still with a little vanilla. Very high quality for the price, and bought for cheaper than the Leroy too!