Entries from 2026

Where is the 2026 vintage today?

By billn on July 02, 2026 #vintage 2026

Beaune-Weather

It’s the start of July, so time to take stock…

Rain needed...Last week it was super hot, with temperatures that are usually reserved for August. This week it’s ‘quite’ warm. What rain was in the last days’ forecast for the Côte d’Or hardly materialised, and the prognosis for the next two weeks is largely dry and getting hotter again – but for some light relief, at least the nights are forecast to be cooler…

So the domaines are mostly trying to avoid any stress for the plants. Few are ploughing or even moving the soil right now as the soil will dry out faster, and likewise, the trimming of the vines has been significantly curtailed to avoid ‘stress.’ So far, there’s no indication of ‘blocking’ in the vast majority of soils, just a few yellowing leaves on flat gravelly (draining) soils or very stony soils without much earth (right)…

It’s a vintage where I’ve never seen so much watering of recently planted vines. As you will know, it is against the rules of AOC to irrigate vines, or they will lose their right to this appellation d’origine contrôlée – the resulting wines become, for example, Vin de France instead of Clos de Vougeot. Young vines, under 3 years old, are the only exception to this rule.

I wonder if we are witnessing a modern 1976 in the making. A vintage in Burgundy where the drought was more marked than the heat of some other regions/countries. This year, it seems that we have both !!

As for the Côte d’Or hail of Wednesday 17th June, significantly hit were Beaune to Pommard, and hail cannons were not used as the storms ‘came from the wrong direction(!)‘ The insurance assessors were in the vines during the last week of June, as much as 30% losses were forecast – but today, 30% ‘of what’ is the fair question. The effect should be less in the pinots, but there was already some coulure in the whites of Beaune, so it could be a ‘real’ 30% here. Then this week (Sunday evening), multiple violent storms came through Beaujolais, mainly bringing some much-needed water, but hail came too. There was some significant damage on the hill of the Côte de Brouilly and the nearby valley of Brouilly Saburin… Too early to say for sure, but vigneron(ne)s are suggesting 60-80% losses, see the images…

Back to the Côte d’Or, Frederic Mugnier told me yesterday, “I’m surprised how the vines currently look – they look fine – but I don’t like this period of heat, we need rain, but there’s nothing in the forecast. The vines looked great 1 week ago and will still be great if we get some rain.

And where are we in terms of maturity?

Well, already in the last days of June, there were photos of the first (red) veraison – potentially the earliest in a sequence of very early vintages. Assuming no blocking to retard maturity, the crémants will already be harvesting around 7 August and the still whites only a week later, then the first (young) reds only a few days later – but it’s usually the case that the combination of heat and dryness causes the process of maturity to stall and is usually ‘unlocked’ by events of rain…

The season is clearly ahead of schedule. We have compared 2026 to other great early-ripening vintages—often characterised by heat and dry summers: with mid-flowering on May 24 and bunch closure around June 20–22, it is hard not to recognise the hallmarks of an exceptional season. However, the water deficit since the start of the season is among the most severe ever recorded. Also noteworthy is that June temperatures were 4.4°C above the 30-year average.
Apex Vineyard Consulting

The hail on the Côte de Brouilly, Sunday 28th June:

More accommodating accommodations ;-)

By billn on June 26, 2026 #events#producer update#tours#travel

If you are looking for upmarket accommodation, there are two new options within minutes of Beaune. First, lets start with Beaune:

Domaine Albert Morot

Wednesday was the official ‘inauguration’ of the Domaine under new ownership and following significant renovations.

It is the husband-and-wife team of Guillaume Poitrinal and Sophie Desmazières-Poitrinal who acquired and renovated this important Beaune property, and not just the property; the winery and the walls of their monopole Savigny 1er cru Clos de la Bataillère (in Vergelesses) have also seen similar treatment.

In the (relatively) short time for renovations here, at least in the glacial timescales of LVMH or Artémis, the work which has been completed still bears comparison with domaines under those marques. The fully air-conditioned mansion-house (the old Château de Creusotte) sports 10 rooms for rent, of course with views over the vines. The impressive kitchen seems shared, but I’m sure that you can bring your own chef! If interested…

I have seldom seen such an assembly of ‘worthies’ of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits in one place to celebrate the inauguration of another winery – much kudos for that – more people were waiting in the 30+ degree heat of the garden than all of Place Carnot that afternoon!

I will continue to visit and taste the wines of their winery head Jean Pierre Villa who made such a good start with his 2023s

Hotel Château la Commaraine

Commaraine
Image from the Hotel…

Looking out onto its 3.6 hectare Pommard 1er cru Clos, and after 5 years of construction work, the hotel was finally opened at the end of April. I visited today, and they already had ‘95%’ occupancy.

Integrated into the property’s footprint is the winery of the Commaraine domaine, which covers over 7 hectares – this work should be completed in time for the ‘early’ 2026 vintage…

The château – which dates from the 1100s – now sports 37 rooms and suites, a spa, a swimming pool (a must-have for some visitors) and ‘almost’ two restaurants; the ‘gastronomic’ restaurant will open soon, and the bistro is already in full swing. Paint me impressed !!

Infos here

les weekend vins…

By billn on June 23, 2026 #degustation

weekend wines

2023 Roland Lavantureux, Chablis Vau Renard
Plenty of colour. Depth and ripeness of atoms – I’m not sure that I’d say Chablis, blind. In the mouth though, there’s minerality to balanc the generosity and plenty of salinity too – yes it’s a wine of Chablis, but a generous one…
Rebuy – No

2005 Michel Lafarge, Beaune 1er Grèves
Plenty of colour. The nose is An attractive blend of depth and freshness. Mouth-filling and very wide – framed with slightly drying, young, tannin – but grainless. Finishing flavours with plent of bitters and salinity. What a young wine! I shall continue to enjoy it, whilst mentally noting ‘not for 5 more years’ for the next bottle!
Rebuy – Maybe

Clos de la Chapelle, sold…

By billn on June 18, 2026 #the market#vines for sale

Clos de la Chapelle

Domaine Guilbert-Gillet Acquires Domaine Clos de la Chapelle

I heard it from 3 sources this week, but now I have it from the horse’s mouth, so:

“Yes, Domaine Clos de la Chapelle has been sold to Domaine Guilbert-Gillet.
He will take over the domaine for the 2026 harvest and beyond and will make wines from those vintages under his own name.
The 2024, 2025 and back stocks will continue to be marketed by us.
We are very happy with this transition and believe that Benjamin is the right person to take over and continue to enhance the quality of the wines from these beautiful appellations.”
Mark OConnell

2022 Henri Gouges…

By billn on June 17, 2026 #degustation

Henri Gouges - some 2022s...The tasting room at Henri Gouges was showing a new vintage this week – so why not? 😊

Mainly 2022s, except for the Les St.Georges…

2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Chênes Carteaux
Top of the hill above Les St.Georges etcetera…
Plenty of colour but still transparent. Really open, rounded with a ripe fruit – a little cherry in style but an accent of florals and some herb in that style too. Lovely in the mouth – quite silky and fluid too. The last flavours have plenty of length and a modest touch of bitters. This is already very attractively drinkable.

2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Porrets St.Georges
Still a little extra colour. An extra herb – but bouquet-garni – and with a larger scale to this nose, more cherry-stone than cherry, with a small strawberry lift – that’s a great invitation. Extra width, extra flavour energy and complexity too – a big step up in flavour energy here – what an excellent and surprisingly approachable wine. More chalky tannic dryness right at the end – much extra personality after the Chênes. What a simply excellent wine…

2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Pruliers
More powder, high-toned and a little more austere – with air, the aromas are going much deeper. Hmm, the most fluid, and also a little more juicy – some citrus-style bitters – this is more obviously a baby, but I could still drink it. Lovely concentration despite the fluidity. You could carafe and enjoy today, but here I’d wait another 2-3 years…

2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vaucrains
Another aromatic with excellent scale – powdery, stony fruit here. Hmm, but this is rather an elegant Vaucrains – lots of tannin but also of velour – wow – the first time I tasted a young Vaucrains that’s so approachable – it might be silly to say ‘ready’ – but I would drink this today and certainly ahead of the Pruliers. What an excellent wine…

2021(!) Nuits St.Georges 1er Les St.Georges
Ouf – the largest, most complex, most cushioned nose. So mouth-filling, concentrated but also fluid – the finest of tannin. The most complex and largest scale of this range of wines, despite the cooler vintage, but the lower volume of the vintage (they lost 60% of their crop from 2 nights of frost in April) ensured proper ripeness. A haunting, though not powerful length. Class!

2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er La Perrière (Blanc)
A generous width of fine citrus, though not overly ripe citrus. A juicy, mouth-watering, palate-cleansing delicious wine. This 22 is still showing some of the textural padding and flavours of the barrel – but it’s delicious with a last twist of tannic dryness on the tongue – chalkiness, as there’s no grain…

Some weekend stuff ;-)

By billn on June 15, 2026 #degustation

2017 Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Capita
A blend of three 1ers. Not made every year…
An enveloping cushion of fruit and still some vanilla aroma. Like the nose, supple and cushioned – great texture and a slowly mouthwatering stony last flavour. Holding very long. A young wine, and I’d like the vanilla to fade more, but this is still completely delicious…
Rebuy – Yes

2022 Château de Fleys, Mont de Milieu
I was a little late in discovering the wines of this domaine, but here is a fine example of what I’ve been missing! Not all is planted at this time, but this domaine has over 5 hectares in this appellation – I assume that they are the largest owner of Mont de Milieu…
A forward and attractive yellow citrus, ripe but still fresh. Beautiful entry, super-mineral, but also with a width to that stony minerality. A modest ripeness – of the right bank and/or the vintage – but nothing out of place. What a classy Chablis.
Rebuy – Yes

2026 Côte d’Or hail…

By billn on June 11, 2026 #vintage 2026

Moody weather this week...

Whilst trying to avoid any sense of voyeurism, I have to report the hail of yesterday…

After the wonderful weather of flowering – and at least 95% is finished in the Côte d’Or – this week, it’s really cooled and become intermittently rainy – it hardly peaked above 16°C yesterday.

I was in Premeaux about 13h15 when the next rainstorm came through – and this one was big; lightning, oh, and some hail too…

The Premeaux hail was very short-lived – hardly a minute and had only very small, half-centimetre ‘stones.’ There was no obvious damage to see in the vines afterwards. It wasn’t like that in the Côte de Beaune.

The ‘best’ images come via Nicolas Rossignol. I’ve seen others with plenty of damaged ‘berries’ too. Of course, at this stage, berries is too large a descriptor – these are tiny, hard grapelets – and with the weather returning to hot and dry from Saturday, yield excepted, there should be very little consequence in terms of quality, or the earliness of this year’s harvest…

But of course, my fingers are crossed…

From another place – Trapet Alsace…

By billn on June 09, 2026 #degustation#etrangers

Domaine Trapet - AlsaceI tasted the Domaine Trapet 2024s yesterday, but also had the chance to taste their current range from their family domaine in Alsace. I bought some – and why not – aren’t Alsace magnums magnificent? 🙂

Andrée Trapet’s responsibility for her family vines came in 2003. Based in Riquewihr, the domaine is now 30 hectares – larger than their ‘footprint’ in Gevrey-Chambertin. It is Jean-Louis and Andrée’s sons, Louis and Pierre who are responsible for the domaine. As always, the wines see additional ageing in bottle, the grand crus only released 2-3 years after the others:

2024 A Minima Blanc
Sylvaner and Pinot Auxerrois – 4 or 5 others too – but those other cepages are only in small quantities…
Rounder style, slightly creamy with a ripe yellow fruit. Hmm – I was not expecting such a large-scale and juicy wine in the mouth – very aromatic and very delicious…

2024 Riesling Kientzheim
Open, quite airy – not an overt nose of Riesling. Open, juicy – growing in energy – a little extra ripeness of fruit in the middle – lovely juicy, easy style… ‘It’s even better on day two…

2024 Riesling Riquewihr
Also quite airy but still a fuller and more floral style of aroma. Also super-juicy but more direct in style – a little extra generosity in these flavours but also an extra vibration, a structure even, in this slightly longer finish. Apparently, there’s a little unfinished sugar in this, but I didn’t note it…

2020 Schoenenbourg ‘Premier Cru
Hmm, spiced and floral too – that’s very attractive. Extra wide with additional concentration, very slowly fading. A beautiful wine…

2020 Schoenenbourg ‘Grand Cru
Less overt top aromas, but wider and deeper at the base. Extra incisive, beautifully juicy – ooh that’s my kind of wine !! Holding so well with fine energy and just a little confit style to the last notes of fruit – I love it…

They have Rangen Grand Cru for the first time in 2024 – it’s too early to taste that wine for this domaine… The following are two muscat wines – a little too aromatic for my taste, but what lovely juicy energy they have, particularly the last wine with ‘maceration…’

2023 μ (mu) Schoenenbourg (Muscat)
Very aromatic and floral – though not the heavy perfume of a gewurz. Another juicy wine, less impact and density than the 2020 riesling – but with such an impressive width in the finish – I do prefer the riesling though.

2023 Ambre Blanc
This is the muscat again. But made by maceration.
Also, a floral/aromatic but with much extra depth and weight. Extra acidity – this is alive – tension for sure and even a little zesty tannin from the skins. This vibrates with finishing interest and width.

2016 Sporen
Opposite Schoenenburg, this is gewurz… It is harvested 10 days later than other cepages and can have a potential alcohol approaching 20! ‘And gewurz needs to be on the right terroir, if not, I understand why some people won’t like it!
A more subtle nose – width with a small fizz of energy. Large in scale, layered, sweet for sure – just lacking some finishing interest – it narrows quite quickly after the first hit of sweetness…

Modest weekend wines…

By billn on June 08, 2026 #degustation

weekend wines

2023 Roc des Boutrires, Pouilly-Fuissé
An attractively pale colour. Cushioned fresh citrus – richer at the core. Hmm, a generous wine – it coats the palate with flavour. It could be more incisive, but this flavour is good. Slowly fading. A good wine, but not a wine to search out.
Rebuy – No

2022 Beaujolais Villages Aux Gauthiers
My last bottle. Vines near the Col des Truges – a shame that this exploitation is no more…
Still great, young colour. An inviting dark fruit, and I like this energy too. Tasty, young and juicy. Holding well. There’s a small deposit in the bottle – maybe the last of the tannins – as I didn’t find any in the wine. Delicious !!
Rebuy – Yes

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