Entries from 2009

Not quite Burgundy …

By Peter Sidebotham on April 22, 2009 #etrangers#peter's posts

Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir
Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir

… but this one comes about as close as I have tasted from Australia. I am constantly trying out New World Pinot Noirs at home as well as at trade fairs, looking for the delicacy and definition that excites me in Burgundy. Oh – and looking for better values too. I find it hard work, as I am burdened with a palate that is very sensitive to alcohol levels, and loves – perhaps even craves – acidity. I mention those things because for anyone more tolerant of alcohol than I seem to be, this would be an absolute gem. The only downside is that it costs pretty much the same as a decent premier cru. Vive le marketing.

Kooyong – Meres Pinot Noir 2005 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)
Medium-full ruby, broad paler rim showing a touch pinkish. Lovely full Pinot nose. Juicy and ripe with a very refined oak frame. This is really lovely and classy, spicy and with a touch of game meat – could be a fat Vosne-Romanee. Mouth entry is nice and taut but with juicy cherry fruit right behind. Good acidity and a real sense of compressed energy here. Fat and spicy in style on the mid-palate, but paradoxically seems to lack body. There is a touch of licorice and very refined cherry/damson fruit. Finish is firm, slightly drying, and just a touch hot (i.e. too alcoholic). This has real beauty at the start, but became less convincing on the mid-palate and worrying on the finish. I feel (hope?) it should come good, but that alcohol on the finish is too much for me.

a really nice bottle, plus recent ‘things’ of interest…

By billn on April 21, 2009 #degustation#other sites

1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles Vignes
1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles Vignes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay Vieilles Vignestry to find this wine...
A medium, medium-plus quite young looking colour. If it wasn’t so sweetly fruity I’d describe the nose as perfumed; it starts as a creamy ‘summer pudding’ with undertones of caramel, 2 hours is enough to focus the aromas to a beam of pure red berry – as perfect as a young villages Volnay can be. On your tongue it has A1 balance and a very understated impact. A characterful flavour in the finish that nods to the barrel but without any of the wood tannin texture. I spent most of my time sniffing, but it tastes rather good too. I rather wish I’d bought this in magnums – but hey-ho…
Rebuy – Yes

Galaxy’s centre tastes of raspberries and smells of rum, say ‘experts’

  • All the hot news here of course! Perhaps the horse-head nebula brings a little brettanomyces too. 😉
  • Or maybe the wine in your glass only “responds to the Moon’s rhythms“(?) Jamie Goode is anyway pooh-poohing the notion.
  • Some lovely new photos again from Vincent Dancer; this time horses plouging and also ‘Montrachet Awakening’:
Ploughing Meursault GenevrièresLink: Vincent Dancer
Ploughing Meursault Genevrières

the one that got away

By Peter Sidebotham on April 20, 2009 #peter's posts

Clos St.Jacques Pernot-Fourrier
Clos St.Jacques Pernot-Fourrier

A little tardy, but I thought I would share with you my notes on probably the only dinner that Bill didn’t get to in Glasgow last month. There were some beauties here, not least of which was the gorgeous Pernot-Fourrier. This is the same domaine as is run today by Jean-Marie Fourrier. Before Jean-Claude took over the domaine, the wines were made by his uncle Fernand Pernot … and a darn good job he made of it, if this bottle is anything to go by.

Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 1992
Rich, even slightly madeirised on the nose. Very rich in the mouth – touches of pinepapple, but with a hard mineral core. Surprisingly little acidity showing here, fully resolved, and with a very long finish. Impressive rather than loveable. 4

Potinet-Ampeau Meursault Charmes 1966
Initially quite fat and waxy, quite unpromising, but this blossomed sensationally over 30 minutes in the glass. Nutty and complete. Broad and ample in the mouth, but with an astonishing lightness too. Lovely. 5-

Remoissenet Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1986
Big and bold on the nose, still with an edge of citric freshness to it. Very big and bright in the mouth, even buxom, but with a core of minerality. Good length on the finish too, but isn’t really harmonious and lacks sophistication after the Meursault. 4+

Meo-Camuzet Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux 1993
Big, intense and heady perfume : “in your face”. Great perfume and suppleness in the mouth. Meaty and intense, with overtones of violets. Dense and dark but with real purity. Big and long. Still really very tight, and still didn’t come together even after an hour in the glass. Hold for 10 years plus. 5

Pernot-Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1978
Almost feral on the nose, but there is lovely ripe red fruit beneath aswell as that earthy gaminess. A classic mature Gevrey, though it doesn’t display the sheer class of the CP. Wonderfully smooth and together in the mouth with great acidity pointing up the fruit (but not intruding). Great drinking with the deer, but not truly great. 4+

97 daniel rion nuits st.georges 1er vignes rondes

By billn on April 19, 2009 #degustation

Daniel Rion Nuits St.Georges 1er Vignes Rondes
Daniel Rion Nuits St.Georges 1er Vignes Rondes

1997 Daniel Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vignes Rondestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour still. The nose is full of sweet-edged undergrowth and below there’s still a dark edge of oak-toast. In the mouth there’s a silkiness and good, if not totally seamless acidity. The dark flavours mirror the nose but have a nice extra creamy dimension, there’s still a bitter-chocolate edge to the tannins too. No sharp edges and only just beginning to enter its drinking window, despite its oaky beginings being still on display, this is becoming a very above average 1997.
Rebuy – Yes (and I don’t say yes to many ’97’s…)

hail today…

By billn on April 17, 2009 #vintage 2009

hail

Hail today in Nuits and Gevrey – light in Nuits but the ground was completely white in parts of Gevrey – nothing in-between. Parts of Puligny became white and light hail was seen in Volnay too. It looks like the vignerons were lucky as few buds were open…

99 joseph drouhin, côtes de nuits villages

By billn on April 17, 2009 #degustation

I was in sunny Ludwigshafen yesterday – and I don’t mean on the Bodensee! – only a 17 hour round-trip!
By the time I returned home it was too late to open something, but I see I did not deliver you a note on this bottle yet:
1999 Joseph Drouhin, Côtes de Nuits Villagestry to find this wine...
Medium colour. A deep nose of spice and cedar plus faint, sweet and maturing background fruit. Quite silky, a slightly unripe impression to the fruit, good acidity and largely diminished tannin. A pretty length until some finishing bitterness. Interesting parts and great value, but missing charm today.
Rebuy – No

pierre morey 06 bourgogne pinot noir + notefinder updated

By billn on April 15, 2009 #degustation#site updates

Pierre Morey Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Pierre Morey Bourgogne Pinot Noir

2006 Pierre Morey, Bourgogne Pinot Noirtry to find this wine...
Medium colour. High tones, with pretty red berry and cherry fruit – it’s really lovely. The palate is not quite how I remember it; the texture is reasonably silky with just an edge of fat, but the acidity is much more in the ascendant than when I first had it – it’s also quite tart. Mouth-watering length, not surprisingly, but with a sneaky creamy edge. The fruit on the nose remains super. I would not touch another of these for at least 3 years as I does remind me of the ’96 Leroy bourgogne at the same stage, and that’s a beauty now!
Rebuy – Yes but not for drinking now…

notefinder burgundy report

Another 250+ notes uploaded into the NoteFinder application, about 500 of which cover only 2006 & 2007 wines…

2006 roger belland, bourgogne pinot noir

By billn on April 13, 2009 #degustation

Roger Belland 2006 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Roger Belland 2006 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

2006 Roger Belland, Bourgogne Pinot Noirtry to find this wine...
A relatively rare ‘Diam’ cork-amalgum seal. Medium, medium-plus colour. A nice, forward blend of red and black cherry that with swirling concentrates more on the red – the last drops are super and redcurranty. A surprising amount of fat for the appellation, relatively fine tannin and good acidity. In the mid-palate I have the impression of some savoury flavour that goes into a decent finish. Very superior Bourgogne and perfect for pouring now. Excellent.
Rebuy – Yes (and I did)

2004 lignier-michelot chambolle les gammaires

By billn on April 09, 2009 #degustation

2004 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammairestry to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a fine depth and only the faintest of the vintage taint – slowly that a builds to an almost unpleasant level – after 2 hours it fades a little, giving a faint spearmint edge and some nice red berry notes. In the mouth there’s reasonable density and slightly forward acidity. The texture is okay, as is the slightly savoury length – maybe even a first hint of mushroom is there. If a little overwhelming on the nose the ’04 character’ remains only a faintly interesting note on the palate.
Rebuy – No

Burgundy Report

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