2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petit-Chapelle![]()
Deep colour. The nose starts quite savoury, only slowly offering a deeper black-fruit core that has a faint white pepper coating. In the mouth this is much more mineral, the acidity is more obvious but retains good balance. The tannins are a little more visible and help the flavour stain your tongue. Good, mineral length with a twist of coffee. Overall a little more (obvious) structure and much less comely than the Perrières today, but qualitatively its equal. Another wine I shall buy.
Rebuy – Yes
Entries from 2008
vines: bought and sold…
From the BIVB:
Maison Louis Latour arrives in Régnié
Owned by Maison Louis Latour since early 2008, Henri Fessy (St-Jean-d’Ardières) has bought up 15 hectares of the Château des Reyssiers vineyard in Régnié (69). Maison Fessy now owns 35 hectares of vineyard. The aim of the chairman and managing director, Louis-Fabrice Latour, is to reach around fifty hectares. “We succeeded in Burgundy by being an owner-trader, and we hope to do the same in Beaujolais”, he explains. Fessy sells around 2 million bottles.The Devillard family in the Mâcon region
The Garenne estate in Azé (71) has joined the Devillard estates. This 4.5-hectare estate has been bought by the Beaumont family (in-laws of Amaury Devillard) in partnership with Robert Vernizeau, expert winemaker from the Perdrix estate (Nuits-Saint-Georges) and technical adviser to the Devillard family estates.
The wines of the Garenne estate will be produced to the same quality requirements in force on the Devillard family estates, and will be added to the range of estate wines distributed by the Devillard family: Château de Chamirey in Mercurey; Domaine des Perdrix in Nuits-Saint-Georges; Domaine de la Ferté in Givry, and Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, also in Givry.
www.domaines-devillard.comJoseph Drouhin: new vines in Savigny-lès-Beaune
Maison Joseph Drouhin (Beaune) has purchased 1 hectare of AOC Savigny-lès-Beaune Village and Premier Cru Fourneaux vines. A purchase which, according to the management, is “part of our supply quality development policy”. The Joseph Drouhin estate comprises 73 ha, and features some of the great Burgundy appellations: Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise.
marchand-grillot 2005 gevrey-chambertin 1er perrières

Apart from an itinerant Chambolle and Morey Villages, Marchand-Grillot are a source for site specific Gevrey villages, a couple of 1ers and a Ruchottes. Not a producer I know well, but if this wine is anything to go by, they are worthy of more attention.
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières![]()
From 50 year old vines. Deep cherry-red, perhaps a little purple at the rim. An open and forward nose of minty, earthy, brambly blackcurrant fruit that falls into a creamy and eventually a redder depth. Ripe, a little lush, lightly grained tannin and excellently balancing acidity. The fruit flavour is very tasty in the mid-palate, almost a crystaline ‘black jelly’. Decent length. No tightening here I think – absolutely delicious right now.
Rebuy – Yes
jean-marc boillot 2005 puligny-montrachet

Suffers in comparison to the de Croix Charlemagne, but with the Mischief and Mayhem still in mind…
2005 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet![]()
Medium yellow. At first the nose shows some high-toast oak, but this slowly mellows to give a slightly diffuse but fresh and high-toned effect. The palate is fresh and balanced, but just a little dilute in the mid-palate. Medium length. Tasty but far from a benchmark.
Rebuy – Maybe
des croix, 2006 corton-charlemagne
2006 des Croix, Corton-Charlemagne![]()
Medium yellow. The nose is wide and shows a complex mix of fruits; pineapple, melon, lemon and a white blossom note. Rich concentration with real intensity in the mid-palate and nicely-judged acidity. The flavours in the finish start slightly savoury and fade in a creamier way. Very young but has good potential.
Rebuy – Yes
so elegant, more elegant…
How to balance your pig-in-a-blanket with your Dom Perignon…
I expect the marketing department at Moet will love these 😉
Bruce provides us with something just that little more elegant, but they are no pig-in-a-blanket solution!
mischief and mayhem 2006 villages puligny

Getting ahead of my self a little as this is one of the wines that I’ll report on in the summer issue, however, it was good enough that I bought some and already popped a cork at home. So here you see the second of my two notes, but first…
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Pulgny-Montrachet![]()
Medium-pale yellow. Good depth to the subtly creamy nose. Fresh and a lively on the palate, with decent intensity a good length. An understatedly fine villages that’s highly recommended.
Rebuy – Yes (and I did)
doudet-naudin 2005 bourgogne pinot noir

2005 Doudet-Naudin, Bourgogne Pinot Noir![]()
A large heavy bottle with a punt you could lose your fingers in, shame the attention to detail misses the cheapest of cheap plastic capsules. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a little oak, but it’s quickly lost, becoming wider with plenty of high tones and a faintly cedar depth – eventually a nice red berry note too. Some fat and reasonable depth – in fact it’s very tasty. On the negative side the acidity is slightly lifted and the flavours are a little muddled together. Not exactly cheap for a bourgogne either at 20 Sfr, but far from a bad value bottle – and as I said it’s quite tasty.
Rebuy – Maybe
olivier guyot 2005 bourgogne pinot noir

It’s the first time I’ve seen wines from this domaine and Olivier seems a bit of a character. Manually harvested Bourgogne (an idealist obviously) and a picture of himself and his horse (Indigo) on the label. His website is as individualistic as his labels and has lots of info. I also found this lovely quote:
This wine is from Olivier Guyot. He is considered somewhat eccentric by some of his neighbors, as he has sold his tractor and gone back to organically horse farming his vineyards. He feels it is better for the land, and that he gets better fruit from doing so. The grapes are hand-harvested, of course, and the wine is bottled without filtration. The domaine has passed from father to son since the 16th century…
The Marsannay based domaine is about 15 hectares so that’s a lot of standing behind his horse! I also have one of his Gevrey 1er Champeaux in the cellar – looks like fun!
2005 Olivier Guyot, Bourgogne Pinot Noir![]()
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has a dense and slightly rustic core, but above soars beautiful and very fine fruit. There is some fat and a dense core that reflects the nose. The acidity is slightly bright but that’s par for the course for many tightening 2005 wines. Finer fruit than the appellation might suggest but with good fat and an engaging hint of rusticity. On day two, even that rusticity is gone – super! – I bought a couple more.
Rebuy – Yes