Entries from 2007

full-on 05, daniel rion vosne 1er beaux-monts

By billn on September 26, 2007 #degustation#other sites

After three 2005’s tinged with a measure of disappointment, normal service is resumed.
2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux-Montstry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Initially a nose of deep, soft and sweet medium-toast oak and a little peppery dark fruit, time bestows more caramel and red fruit. Mouthfilling and concentrated yet remaining athletic rather than fat, the tannins are buried beneath the fruit. The mid-palate is expanded in the mouth by lush acidity. Finally it’s a very low-key, but long finish. Here is a 2005 that is not yet guarding its wares. An out-and-out bargain at the en-primeur purchase price of 43 Swiss francs per, that’s 26 Euros. Who says there is no value in Burgundy?
Rebuy – Yes

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  • How the Robert Parker Wine Dogs rating system works: Buddy by RMP – excellent!
  • But what about global warming?

another reluctant 2005 – bouchard père’s savigny 1er lavières

By billn on September 25, 2007 #degustation

bouchard lavieres

If I look back to my note from my tasting together with Christophe Bouchard, from a value perspective, this was an easy ‘buy’ for me:
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières
28th Feb.2007
With almost 4 hectares of vines, Bouchard P&F own close to one quarter of this vineyard. Bottled at the beginning of February (only 3 weeks before this note), this wine initially shows an understated and nicely floral aspect, slowly it builds on flashes of dark fruit and eventually some caramel barrel notes. Sweeter fruit than the previous wines, again with some grain to the tannin, but the purity of the fruit presentation is excellent as it expands over the mid-palate. I will check a few prices as this could be quite a buy.

Today:
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavièrestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose shows red and black fruit, but more to the ‘black side’, there is also an underlying note of (medium) oak toast – not overpowering (even to this palate) but consistent for the time the bottle is consumed. The palate is lithe and interesting with good length, without ever generating getting into gear. Good wine for sure, but disappointing vs my initial note.
Rebuy – Yes

Clearly my rebuy note reflects the current ‘good’ showing but more-so the excellent showing of a few months ago. So what’s happened? This wine is significantly ‘less’ than exciting – it’s still very good but has lost the ‘zip’ and ‘zing’. Ravaut, Lignier-Michelot and this make 3 in a row from 2005 – all of which I expected to perform better. Maybe these guys are onto something.

05 lignier-michelot chambolle-musigny VV

By billn on September 25, 2007 #degustation#other sites

lignier-michelot chambolle2005 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a forward mix of red and black cherry plus a rather mineral note. The longer it stays in the glass, it becomes redder and finer but with much less volume. The palate is mainly about balance – reasonable concentration and a sneaky extra cherry dimension that goes into the palate too.
It’s quite lithe, not too muscular and again a little mineral. Today it’s a classy if slightly anonymous bottle – a very good bottle for sure, but one that I hope will become even better. Given it’s lowly en-primeur purchase price of 29 Swiss francs it remains an easy and bargain rebuy, if you can find some for that…
Rebuy – Yes

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Worth reading:

bouchard père 05 mercurey

By billn on September 22, 2007 #degustation

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Mercureytry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is high toned and very, very pinot with a faint oaky undertone. The palate is fresh with a faint astringency coupled to some grain from the tannins. Not so dense, but flavour-packed, though perhaps the acidity is just a little to the fore. A nice red-fruited complexion with a reasonable finish. Almost good, though factor in the price of 22 Swiss francs and it also stays only at ‘almost good’ value stakes – there are many bargains to be found in 2005, this doesn’t qualify.
Rebuy – Maybe

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  • SF Gate yet another interesting article – this time by Alice

a.-f. gros 2005 vosne clos de la fontaine

By billn on September 21, 2007 #degustation

af gros vosne
2005 A.-F. Gros, Vosne-Romanée Clos de la Fontainetry to find this wine...
The cork seems surprisingly ‘spongy’ and pliable. Medium-plus colour. The nose is dark, spicy and shows a black oak toast and tar – eventually faint red fruits diluted by cream and faint ginger. In your mouth there’s a little fat and some silky texture – the tannin is quite fine. The mid-palate runs into quite a long finish – plenty of bitter-chocolate effect from the oak but some extra creamy fruit dimension too. This wine has plenty of dark oak character today but there’s more than enough density and material to balance – and it will fade with time, even in the glass, slowly there are redder fruits appearing. I’m not the biggest oak fan, but this is nicely presented and has plenty of ‘Vosne’ personality. I look forward following it’s evolution over the next 10+ years. My en-primeur price was a reasonable 35 Swiss francs.
Rebuy – Yes

Warning – turns your tongue purple! 😉

g et p ravaut, 05 ladoix 1er le bois roussot

By billn on September 20, 2007 #degustation#other sites

ladoix 1er

More sophisticated than this wine but less ‘upfront’. Today I have a slight preference for the initial joie de vivre of the previously tasted wine – it will be interesting to compare them over time.
2005 Gaston et Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussottry to find this wine...
A deep cherry-red core. The nose is understated but deep – it remains so even after the last hints of dark oak have receded. This 2005 is one of the rarer wines from the vintage with an edge of black fruit in the mix – the last drops in the glass are, however, pure red. Smooth and soft – almost sweetly cordial like – it will keep this aspect for about another 2 years before becoming more ‘classically’ fresh. But balanced freshness is already evident, and the tannin is very much hidden in the background. There’s plenty of material here, and most impressive is the value – this was about 19 Swiss francs, i.e regional bourgogne territory. Even in 2005 you will be hard pressed to find such a sophisticated bourgogne.
Rebuy – Yes

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New tidbits worth a visit:

f et d clair, 05 st.aubin 1er dents de chien

By billn on September 19, 2007 #degustation#other sites

The second test from my delivery of en-primeur purchased 2005’s. Given the Indian Summer it had to be another white – it was too cold to drink much white this summer. Relative to other ‘Dents de Chiens’ this bottling is usually ‘only’ almost good to good, but wins for its bargain price, even in an appellation which is anyway good value – at 23 Swiss francs it’s cheaper than some bourgognes.
2005 François et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chientry to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose needs a little while to widen, perhaps a little white blossom. The palate is intense and soft, sweetly ripe. The acidity seems quite understated – but there’s much more density to this wine than in most vintages, it even has some focus. For the price, very impressive.
Rebuy – Yes

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Other tidbits worth a quick visit:

the burgundy market ‘spin’

By billn on September 18, 2007 #other sites#the market

“Even as we move out of a comparatively difficult period in terms of sales, Burgundy still has major assets as regards its reputation and power of attraction. Wine lovers place great confidence in the Burgundy “brand”, which conveys strong values of authenticity, a centuries-old historical legacy, quality and typical features. Moreover, Burgundy wine professionals have succeeded in emphasising the value of wines produced using historic know-how – an asset which was formerly neglected. This is the case for Crémant de Bourgogne, which has been remarkably successful over the past few years. Finally, Burgundy has also reorganised its Bureau. Various key departments have been set up that are fully operational and swift to act, thus providing Burgundy with an effective communications relay to make its voice heard, undertake collective projects and anticipate future changes, in an atmosphere of mutual confidence.”

So runs the commentary of the BIVB to the record 925,000 hectolitres (123 million bottles, +1%) of sales during the 2006/07 period i.e. largely coinciding with the sales of the 2005 vintage. The emphasis of the points above is not badly made, but it makes too much of a leap of faith by additionally saying ‘the hard times of the past are over’ (my paraphrasing), by ignoring a potential ‘bubble’ for buyers of the 05’s. Recent hype brought many new buyers to the region simply because of its success and their wish to own (I’m not sure about drinking) those 99pt bottles – where will they be for the 2006 or harder still the 2007 vintages? – grape costs for both those vintages will be higher than for 2005. Let us see this time next year, and harder still in 2009…

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I also note with interest a new addition to wine-related online journals. Berry Bros & Rudd are pretty-much pioneers of web-based wine commerce and usually do everything to high standard, more importantly with commitment – let’s see how they develop…

2005 bouchard père chablis bougros

By billn on September 16, 2007 #degustation

bouchard bougros chablisMy first ‘bulk’ delivery of en-primeur 2005’s, all ordered from the Swiss co-op back in April 2006. I’ve only had a bottle of Bouchard’s 2002 Bougros before and it was a beauty, but sadly sold out before I could make a second order. This time I wasn’t going to miss out – so a full 12 were ordered at a mere 33 Swiss francs per. This was allowed only 24 hours rest before popping the cork, I wonder how long I can wait to open the reds… 🙂
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chablis Bougros try to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is forward and deep, a little vanilla-custard and maybe some background sulfur that seems to slightly dull a citrus edge. The palate is… well… wow! Super-intense. It’s hardly at its best given my lack of patience as the impressive parts are not yet a ‘whole’ but there is reasonable minerality, impressive mid-palate intensity and and a great ‘zing’ to the acidity. The length is very good rather than outstanding, but clearly a bargain at the price.
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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