Bertagna

2002 Bertagna Vougeot Les Cras

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red with a purple highlight – as the Petits Vougeot. High toned nose thats shaded to red fruit. Seems quite fat, the tannins are fine and velvetty with just a little dryness. Lovely red berried fruit, just a little more vanilla and very good acidity. I very much like this fresh style.

2002 Bertagna Clos de Vougeot

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Mainly from 70 year-old vines. Almost as dark as the Perrières. The nose is complex and broad, though not particularly deep. Intense fruit – very much so on the mid-palate. Good acidity and well covered tannins. The tannins are pretty silky – sort of halfway between the Petits Vougeots and the Perrières. Another very good wine.

2001 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Lighter colour than the 2002, a medium cherry red. The nose starts a little leafy and meaty, probably from the oak – not all that exciting – after 10 minutes of coaxing (it’s a cold bottle) it’s transformed into a gorgeous creme brulee with red fruit in the background. The palate is as smooth as silk, medium concentrated but good complexity and acidity. A long finish. Understated and beautifully balanced. A wine that becomes more and more demonstrative with time.

2000 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

The colour’s just a little deeper than 2001. A gorgeous high toned nose that’s very open and wide, tons of red berried fruit. Deep fruit that etches onto your palate. The tannins have a little grab, but are perfectly velvetty. Nice and deep with a lovely flourish on the finish. Another wine that I’ll buy!

1999 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

The colour is quite similar to the 2001, medium cherry red. Despite an impressive depth of black fruit the nose is less giving than the 2000. Obvious fat on the rounded palate with well covered tannins and perfect acidity. Not quite the burst of fruit on the finish that you’ll find on the 2000, but this is a wine biding it’s time. Will be super – together with the 2002,

2001 Bertagna Vougeot Premier Cru Blanc

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

85% of the fruit comes from Les Crâs, the remainder from Les Petits Vougeots. Pale yellow in colour with a heady, high-toned nose that gradually becomes deeper and more complex; honey, melon then pineapple. Also on the palate you start with melon but this is quickly overtaken by the pineapple. Good acidity and a mineral finish make this a very interesting and nice wine.

1993 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Very deep ruby in colour – solid to the rim too. The generous nose has warm red confiture over a base of secondary and slightly dusty aromas. Two hours in a decanter loses much of the secondary aromas leaving a faintly spicy cherry. The palate shows surprising (to me) density and silkiness – this is surely the preserve of a grand cru? Good acidity and fine tannins that are close to being resolved. I’m genuinely surprised by the density of this wine, I expect a Vougeot to be a medium weight red-cherry-fruit-affair. Is it the vintage or the winemaking? There doesn’t seem to be any obvious (over) extraction, and despite the density there is balance – did they miss-label their Clos Vougeot? There’s 10+ years left to enjoy this wine – Chapeau!

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