Tight but rounder nose, high tones slowly evolving. The palate is softer and sweeter, still a little grain to the tannin, but the fruit from the mid-palate has a nice creamy coating. Nice wine.
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Bertagna
2004 Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny
2004 Bertagna Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots
2004 Bertagna Vougeot Les Cras
2002 Bertagna Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow, edged with green. Lovely depth to the nose, starts with a whisp of aniseed, leaving cream-edged citrus fruit against fresh bread. The beautifully clean palate is linear, ripe and sweet, and really expands from the mid-palate into the strong finish. No obvious oak influence, save for a creamy element. Very fine intensity. Young, obviously, but very tasty. A wine to drink now or save 5+ years.
2003 Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
Big heavy bottle exuding quality – hope the wine’s a match – particularly as at €14 it’s not cheap for a bourgogne. Medium-plus colour. The nose whilst shouting 2003 has an extra dimension – it’s close to what you expect from a barrel sample with very forward sweet, ripe red fruit. The palate is also reminiscent of a barrel sample, showing good freshness, a hint of sweetness and a mouthwatering finish of surprising depth. Really first-class bourgogne. Within the context of appellations this is the pinnacle of 2003 red burgundy. There’s now a case in cellar.
1996 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière
A big, heavy bottle. Deep ruby colour with very little fading. Starts with lots of depth but gradually a piercing red fruit note comes through. Fresh palate with really super, slightly creamy but also slightly saccharin length. Doesn’t have the fatness of the 1993 and it also has a slight grain to the tannin. This wine shows great balance and an ever-changing, in fact exciting nose, I’m looking forward perhaps another 3-5 years to a time when, hopefully, the palate will show as much interest as the fantastic nose and lose that slightly confected saccharin finish.
2001 Bertagna Vougeot Premier Cru Blanc
85% of the fruit comes from Les Crâs, the remainder from Les Petits Vougeots. Pale yellow in colour with a heady, high-toned nose that gradually becomes deeper and more complex; honey, melon then pineapple. Also on the palate you start with melon but this is quickly overtaken by the pineapple. Good acidity and a mineral finish make this a very interesting and nice wine.