Tight nose with an oaky edge. The wine has a very good texture and fat, the tannin combines well with the fruit. Quite long too, though I prefer the villages.
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Bertagna
2004 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière
2004 Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny Les Plantes
2004 Bertagna Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts
2002 Bertagna Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow, edged with green. Lovely depth to the nose, starts with a whisp of aniseed, leaving cream-edged citrus fruit against fresh bread. The beautifully clean palate is linear, ripe and sweet, and really expands from the mid-palate into the strong finish. No obvious oak influence, save for a creamy element. Very fine intensity. Young, obviously, but very tasty. A wine to drink now or save 5+ years.
2003 Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
Big heavy bottle exuding quality – hope the wine’s a match – particularly as at €14 it’s not cheap for a bourgogne. Medium-plus colour. The nose whilst shouting 2003 has an extra dimension – it’s close to what you expect from a barrel sample with very forward sweet, ripe red fruit. The palate is also reminiscent of a barrel sample, showing good freshness, a hint of sweetness and a mouthwatering finish of surprising depth. Really first-class bourgogne. Within the context of appellations this is the pinnacle of 2003 red burgundy. There’s now a case in cellar.
1996 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière
A big, heavy bottle. Deep ruby colour with very little fading. Starts with lots of depth but gradually a piercing red fruit note comes through. Fresh palate with really super, slightly creamy but also slightly saccharin length. Doesn’t have the fatness of the 1993 and it also has a slight grain to the tannin. This wine shows great balance and an ever-changing, in fact exciting nose, I’m looking forward perhaps another 3-5 years to a time when, hopefully, the palate will show as much interest as the fantastic nose and lose that slightly confected saccharin finish.
2002 Bertagna Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots
2002 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière
Much deeper colour – almost saturated, also with a purple rim. The nose is less high toned, more black fruit than red. Fatter and more concentrated with a little more acidity and good tannins though not quite as silky as Les Petits Vougeots. More intense, mineral and complex than the Petits Vougeots – a real keeper.