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2010 Marchand Pascal, Clos de VougeotMay. 2012
The nose here gives the impression of a bit more muscle and in shape shows more width than depth. Clearly another level of structure on the palate, but those tannins are polished and the flavour is more overtly mineral than fruity. Impressive stuff – the last drops in the glass now show a super-classy red berry note. Despite the polish, proper CV!
2009 Lamarche Francois, Clos de VougeotApr. 2011
The nose is more intense – a hint of chocolate in there too. Full in the mouth; the structure is softer than the Echézeaux – but there’s still plenty of it. Just so intense that you have to swallow or spit – you can’t dally. “Wonderful” murmurs somebody – and why not indeed!
2008 Vougeraie, Clos de VougeotMar. 2011
The nose is deep and faintly musky – plenty of width too – higher tones come next with some flowers. Very fine tannin, red fruit and an intensity that builds. Mouthwatering with a reprise of flavour just when you think it’s all done – this time with a hint of vanilla.
2009 Vougeraie, Clos de VougeotMar. 2011
Deeper fruit, again a hint of musk that blend with flashed of red fruit. Fresher and apparently more (obviously) structured than the Clos du Roi. Grows in intensity – the flavour growing in tandem. Really hold its finish – excellent!
2008 Remoissenet Père et Fils, Clos de VougeotOct. 2010
After the 2007 there are more immediate and finer red fruit aromas. I love the width and the relative lack of padding. Very long and understated. Super.
2007 Remoissenet Père et Fils, Clos de VougeotOct. 2010
A little diffuse perhaps but complex aromas that eventually deliver an undertow of coffee. Cushioned, complex, some tannin but intensity too. A little mineral in the finish.
2008 Giroud Camille, Clos de VougeotJul. 2010
The aromas seem stricter – they are certainly more savoury – but they are not ‘difficult’. In the mouth, while less kaleidoscopic, this is more focused and precise than the Chambertin in exactly the same way the Cortons were to the xxx-Chambertins. This is really an excellent wine.
2008 Roche de Bellene, Clos de VougeotJul. 2010
Very different aromas versus the last wines – a much darker impression of fruit. Not austere but there is a higher level of ‘managed’ structure. The flavours have a floral dimension. I find it imposing yet, at the same time, slightly aloof. A nice challenge!
1986 Confuron-Cotetidot, Clos de VougeotMay. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The first sniff will weaken your knees, such is the depth of dark macerated cherry, padded with earth. Like the last two 86s I’ve opened, here is a wine that seems excellently balanced – the acidity is good – yet it’s not refreshingly moreish, it doesn’t beg you to take another sip, all have somehow seemed acid-shy when they’re not – strange. The texture is silky before a fine but astringent tannin starts to take over. A high-toned fruit expands across the mid-palate before very slowly lingering – it’s a high-quality finish. This is a wine of power and still some aspect of youth, it’s a bit of a cliché to say ‘austere’ but there is still something of that about it – am I allowed to say a 24 year-old wine is too young? – the nose suggests more today than the full package actually delivers. No rush to open the last two bottles…
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