burgundy – no weather change?

By billn on September 07, 2016 #warning - opinion!

WP_20160831_20_10_16_Pro

Well, that would be yes and no.

French meteorologists recently, through the BIVB, made presentations to the local wine producers. They showed some interesting data-sets that both confirmed and disproved some of what people were thinking re changing weather patterns. I offer a very quick summary of what was presented – second-hand – from someone who was at the presentation:

In recent years, the seasons have certainly shown some changes in terms of the average temperatures – currently, only Autumn is about the same average temperature as before – all the other seasons have clearly shown a shift to warmer average temperatures.

We have short memories when it comes to hail, communication is now instant, but before, we only heard of hail in wine magazines weeks after the fact. Whist taking France as a whole, it is clear that there have been exceptional hail events in 2016, but statistically there is no significant change in the incidence of such hail – Volnay for instance has previously been hit 3 years in a row. I think we need to keep a watching brief on that one!

I’m certainly not the only one that has the impression of more rain storms or a change in their frequencies, but the weather forecasters have gone back and checked their historic data for the amounts of rain; first per month, then per week and then per day et-cetera, and within statistical error – a surprise to everyone – it’s unchained.

Now who would have thought it!

weekend wines – week 35

By billn on September 06, 2016 #degustation

WP_20160903_10_58_45_Pro

Well, the 2007 Camille Giroud Cazetiers was simply brilliant; a floral-inflected fruit of freshness and purity that you rarely find in an 07. I drank this over two nights – with massive joy. The 2006 Chenu Savigny Lavières was a lighter wine – in both intensity, concentration and colour! Yet it was a delightful ‘small’ wine that well-showed the earthy-flavoured characteristics of a good Lavières – of-course if you’re looking for a concentrated Lavières, you would be better choosing Chandon de Briailles, Bouchard Père or Tollot-Beaut – though you need a hint more oak tolerance for those latter two wines. Then we have the 2000 Jean-Marc Boillot Pommard 1er Jarollières – a wine that, over the years, I’ve found to be highly variable and sometimes bretty. This was a very good one; strawberry-fruited aromatics and a nice width of decently concentrated and well-textured flavour. This Jarollières was really enjoyed.

Lastly, my final M&M, the 2007 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets (again!) This bottle, like the last, delivers a deeply coloured wine but without any obvious oxidation. Like the last, and surprisingly given the vintage, it shows quite some fat – and certainly a very impressive volume in the mouth. It’s very complex without actually being moreish – for that you would certainly have to wait for a higher level of maturity – give this summer’s experiences of the M&M 2005s, that’s not a ship that I would personally sail on, but this is an impressive wine all the same!

burgundian wine theatre…

By billn on September 06, 2016 #travels in burgundy 2016

DSC00860-1
 Pic taken at the weekend…

There’s more than a touch of theatre to the (work in progress) new cuverie of JC Boisset in Nuits St.Georges. It’s not going to be ready for this year’s harvest – but that’s probably just as well given the low yields in 2016 – Can’t you hear the obvious conversation that would ensue?

“Why did we make is so big?”

a few wines from the château de meursault

By billn on September 05, 2016 #degustation

DSC00846A chance weekend tasting 😉
Whilst the local pricing is rather high, these wines really do have more than a pretension to be high-value wines these days…

2013 Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Optical sorting with 3 different cameras, foudres too since 2013
A really super depth of aroma – clearly edged with oak notes, but this nose is really inviting. Good volume in the mouth, fresh fruit, lots of complexity too. This is very tasty, the oak component is not too overt and seems quite attractive here.

2013 Pommard 1er Clos des Epenots
A more obvious floral aroma, pretty, though cushioned red fruit. Layered, complex, very faintly salted – I find this very much more elegant and gorgeously tasting than the Beaune. A long line of flavour, faintly herbed, but fabulous!

2013 Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
‘The only plot in Volnay where you will find white marl – something much more common in the Côte de Nuits’ – says our host…
A deep nose of dark red fruit, faintly herbed. Lovely mouth-feel – there is a tannin that you can chew, almost, but velvet and no dryness. A wine of more volume than the Epenots, but super, super in the mouth.

2013 Corton
A faintly smoky-fruited nose, but there are no stems. Pure silk – hmmmm… This has fine freshness and a cushioned delivery of flavour. Really not the most powerful of Cortons and rounder rather than direct and sinewy – but really something to appreciate in the glass. More mineral and faintly saline in the finish. Super stuff to drink, already!

Whites

2014 Bourgogne Clos du Château
From the vines planted in the front ‘garden’ of the Château.
A discreet nose, rounded. Fresh, direct, round – a growing complexity with a slowly growing mouth-watering aspect. A sneakily good wine.

2014 Meursault 1er Charmes
A wide fresh, not super-powerful nose, but I find the width super. Hmm, layered, growing in volume. Just a great wine. Some tightness but really a rather haunting length – just a brilliant wine in the making.

2012 Meursault 1er Perrières
A bigger, rounder nose, accented with a faint barrel vanilla. Big, clearly mineral, layered and complex – honestly I’d like just a hint more acidity, but that won’t matter at all in a couple more years.

2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
A lovely bright bouquet of fresh yellow citrus. Silky, mineral, very silky – this is lovely. What a super and elegant wine. Excellent!

legal: don’t speak to him…

By billn on September 04, 2016 #producer update

It is said in Nuits that the people of Maison Ilan or their legal representatives have contacted suppliers, warning them not speak to the journalist inquiring about Mr. Walker’s woes – apparently with “discrete but obvious legal threats…

I assume that those representatives no-longer want grape business from their previous suppliers, hence, 2015 would effectively be the last grapes ‘bought’ by Maison Ilan…

move over drc – for expensive bouchard père…

By billn on September 03, 2016 #the market

bpf-1865You didn’t think that I’d let this slip by eh?

I may have previously mentioned that I bought wine at the last ex-cellars sale of Bouchard Père et Fils wines, in that particular case from Sothebys. At the weekend there was another sale, again featuring ex-cellars wines, but this time it was Christies with the gavel, and just for good measure, the venue Hong Kong, not London.

Of-course it was the impeccably stored 19th-century bottles that took the honours – no less than the 1865 Chambertin, re-corked in 1991 – a snip at USD 39,661. And that’s despite the sale catalogue having to resort to a tasting note dated 1995!

I note that on a per-bottle level, this was easily the most expensive bottle in the sale – and that despite the presence of plenty of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s best…

offer of the day – leroy…

By billn on September 02, 2016 #the market

Or maybe that should be offer of the millennium?

It would set you back a mere $43,400 for one each of these wines – a little over $800 as an average bottle price – clearly a bagatelle for some, though on the other hand, probably enough to fit wells and sanitation to a number of sub-Saharan villages. You pays your money…

Red Burgundy
2013 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (750ml) $2,375.00  (US Dollars)
2013 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (750ml) $2,650.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Bas de Combe (750ml) $555.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Lavieres A.C. (750ml) $555.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots (750ml) $555.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Richebourg Grand Cru (750ml) $2,800.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru (750ml) $2,700.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Savigny Les Beaune Les Narbantons 1er Cru (750ml) $925.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Volnay Santenots Du Milieu 1er Cru (750ml) $925.00 
2013 Domaine Leroy Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts 1er Cru (750ml) $975.00 

2012 Domaine Leroy Vosne Romanee Aux Genevrieres (750ml) $825.00 
2012 Domaine Leroy Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts VV 1er Cru (750ml) $1,375.00

2011 Domaine Leroy Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru (750ml) $1,950.00 
2011 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Bas de Combe (750ml) $550.00 
2011 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru (750ml) $850.00 
2011 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots (750ml) Qty3 $580.00 
2011 Domaine Leroy Savigny Les Beaune Les Narbantons 1er Cru (750ml) $800.00 

2010 Maison Leroy Cote de Beaune Villages A.C. (750ml) $130.00

2009 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Lavieres A.C. (750ml) $555.00 
2009 Domaine Leroy Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru (750ml) $2,950.00 
2009 Domaine Leroy Savigny Les Beaune Les Narbantons 1er Cru (750ml) $825.00 

2009 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Rouge (750ml) $63.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Gevrey Chambertin A.C. (750ml) $405.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Pernand Vergelesses A.C. (750ml) $155.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Santenay A.C. (750ml) $100.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Vosne Romanee A.C. (750ml) $425.00 

2007 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Allots 1er Cru (750ml) $425.00

2006 Maison Leroy Pommard 1er Cru (750ml) $510.00

2005 Maison Leroy Beaune Belissand 1er Cru (750ml) $425.00 

2000 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru (750ml) $650.00 
2000 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny Les Fremieres (750ml) $650.00 
2000 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Allots (750ml) $425.00 
2000 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Bas de Combe (750ml) $725.00 
2000 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru (750ml) $725.00 
2000 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots (750ml) $400.00 

1996 Domaine Leroy Volnay Santenots (750ml) $765.00

1995 Domaine Leroy Savigny Les Beaune Les Narbantons 1er Cru (750ml) $440.00 

White Burgundy
2011 Domaine Leroy Bourgogne Aligote A.C. (750ml) Qty17 $95.00 
2011 Domaine d’Auvenay Lalou Bize-Leroy Auxey Duresses Clous (750ml) $645.00 
2011 Domaine d’Auvenay Lalou Bize-Leroy Bourgogne Aligote A.C. (750ml) $2,016.00 
2011 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Aligote A.C. (750ml)$65.00 
2011 Maison Leroy Meursault Blagny 1er Cru (750ml) $162.00 
2011 Domaine d’Auvenay Lalou Bize-Leroy Meursault Les Narvaux A.C. (750ml) $1,100.00

2010 Maison Leroy Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru (750ml) $240.00

2009 Maison Leroy Auxey Duresses A.C. (750ml) $185.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru (750ml) $330.00 
2009 Maison Leroy Puligny Montrachet Sous le Puits 1er Cru (750ml) $255.00

2008 Maison Leroy Chassagne Montrachet Les Embrazees 1er Cru (750ml) $270.00 

2007 Domaine Leroy Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (750ml) $2,350.00

2002 Domaine d’Auvenay Lalou Bize-Leroy Auxey Duresses A.C. (750ml) $600.00 
2002 Domaine d’Auvenay Lalou Bize-Leroy Meursault Les Narvaux A.C. (750ml) $1,025.00 

1983 Maison Leroy Auxey Duresses A.C. (750ml) $400.00

weekend wines – week 34

By billn on September 01, 2016 #degustation

Quite a ‘classical’ weekend selection:

More concise reflections/recollections than full tasting notes:

The Faiveley 2000 Mazis-Chambertin wore a normal Faiveley label to the front, but a Tastevinage label to the rear. This opened up very slowly from an ultra-discreet start to something that opened out ever-wider on the palate. Not an amazingly complex wine, and not a hairy-chested Mazis either – but really a tasty and surprisingly elegant one – even the sediment was tasty 🙂
Next up, the 2007 Clos des Epeneaux – decanted! This started as typical direct, sinewy Clos des Epeneaux – typically unyielding. About 30+ minutes in the decanter and it was starting to become more friendly and certainly more interesting.
Similarly the 2007 Forge de Tart was also decanted – in this case to aerate and hopefully reduce aromatic and flavour aspects imparted by the wood elevage. It needed at least 30 minutes to have some effect, but I must say that, eventually, this was my favourite wine of three – really a fine and complex nose, a wine of power and enjoyment. Yum!

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;